A Pilgrim’s Guide to Planet Earth : INDIA

A Pilgrim’s Guide to Planet Earth by Paramatma Khalsa was first published in 1981.

More activity, noise, smells than one can imagine: the passion of life is ed for all to feel, not covered up as Western sensibility demands. Most travellers either plunge blindly into this gushing river of life (often to be engulfed by it) or remain as separate and aloof as possible. But some are gracefully led to the path of loving surrender to the Mother’s charms, a dual dying of expectations, of plans, of fears.

The man dying in the street must be looked at, must be felt deep inside if is to be nourished by the Mother. Become quiet enough to feel the pulse that the dying man is part of. Will the water of the Ganges give you dysentery ill it cleanse your soul? Feel the pulse. Become one with it. Stay a long time in one place, go deep into the movements of the Mother’s dance.

For those of us whose faith is new-born and feeble, India is an excellent to work on developing faith and devotion. Wherever you turn in India, are surrounded by fellow devotees; wherever you look, there is some-thing to remind you of Bhagwan.

Nothing lies outside ourselves; in a way we see only our own desires. We expect to see God if we don’t look very intently and longingly, especially in an Eastern country where there are so many exotic things to catch attention. For the worldly-minded, India is little more than a land of easy living, colourful wares and good hashish. But if our minds go to the Divine, India will seem like God’s very home. This truth isn’t special to it’s just that with so much God-consciousness available here, one’s mind is naturally pulled in that direction.

One can’t really separate culture and religion in India. Strictly speaking the culture is an expression of man’s spirit – so in a country where people a more interested in sharing love than in acquiring wealth and fame, the culture feels warm and vibrant.

Most Indians, especially the spiritually minded, still follow the ancient dharma, the agreement of the people to live together in harmony according to the word of their spiritual forefathers. For example, one dharma of a householder is to assist saints and pilgrims, while the dharma of a pilgrim to give food and alms in the vicinity of holy places. There is a dharma f every being in every situation, and the people are very intent on doing the “pious duty.” To follow the dharma can be a wonderful way of surrendering to the One Body as well as of gaining the affection of the Indian people.

According to the saints, India is now passing through the Age of Kali (Kali Yuga) in which true religion is eclipsed by unrighteousness. Even casual glance bears this out; India has suffered from 800 years of occupation by foreign powers as well as from centuries of internal decay. Today the leadership is mostly interested in economic and social measures that will secure India’s position in the world. Among the people the trend is towards materialism and imitation of the West. Too often the Spirit is quite forgotten All this is especially apparent in the big cities. The best plan for the pilgrim is to finish his business in the city and entrain for areas less affected by the West. Holy places, ashrams, temples, and the hearts and homes of simple devotees are the abodes of dharma. Nearly everyone in countless obscure villages is a devotee of the Lord. Likewise, in many ashrams throughout the country, communities of devotees consecrate most of their day to serving their spiritual masters and contemplating the Spirit.

To be a guest in an Indian household is an overwhelming experience. The saying “guest is God” is practically everyone’s watchword. It seems as if your host has nothing to do but serve you! Comforts, food or entertainment come to you out of natural generosity. For an Indian it’s a great honour receive a guest coming from so far away. So, to reach the heart of India welcome friendship with the people and become their guest. Let your Indian friend take care of you because it gives him joy to teach you whatever you want to know about his world.

Pilgrimage is a highly conscious and evolved activity in Mother India. Most of her children know they are transmigrating through ceaseless round of birth and death – the soul’s pilgrimage through countless forms. Any concept of a pleasure-seeking vacation is exceedingly new and limited. Traditionally, a Hindu or Buddhist goes on pilgrimage from time to time, journeying all over the vast, sacred landscape of the Mother. Millions of grims are always traveling about and being fed at countless dharmsalas (pilgrim’s hostels) and ashrams. Seldom is there any difficulty in finding sacred living space. There are many thousands of wandering holy men – sadhus – who spend their whole lives on yatra, completing the full of Indian shrines every few years. From time to time they visit their gurus or gather together at big religious festivals called melas, but most of lives are spent traveling and doing austerities (tapas) in the jungles, mountains, or along the sacred rivers.

Shaivite babas are devoted to and emulate Lord Shiva, while Vaishnav sadhus sing the praises of Rama (an incarnation of Vishnu) and Krishna. Traditionally they are not to remain in any place for more than three days, they become attached. They are never to keep more money or food than sustain them for a few days, and they are supposed to be completely bate. When a sadhu takes sanyas (renunciation), he leaves family, caste home, never to return. Sadhus relate well to hippies, and many smoke ganga (grass) and charas (hash) in a prescribed sacramental way. Most are to Westerners who come to pay respects, share food, or seek teachings. Since they live outdoors or in simple shelters, they usually follow benign weather patterns. Wintertime finds them in the south or on the central plains, while in the hot spring season many retreat to Himalayan hill stations such as Rishikesh. Between June and September when the rest of India is deluged by the monsoon rains, many babas go to Kashmir where there is no monsoon, and make yatra to Amarnath Cave high in the Himalayas.

The final word to the prospective pilgrim is to relax and hope to achieve thing particular in Mother India. Have Her darshan and feel Her blessings, and offer in return only love and readiness to follow where She leads. Hay your pilgrimage help bring happiness to all beings! – (Amazing Grace)

River Ganges is the Mother; the Mother nourishes and the Mother cleanses. Ganga Ma Cal, the water which flows out the top of Lord Shiva’s head, is the manifestation of energy flow. Millions make pilgrimage to her shores each year. They believe that dip or sip from Ganga Ma and you are cleansed. Garbage in the river is like the rest manifestation, this world. Have faith, they say, jump in, let yourself be gulfed by Her warm embrace.

Shiva Shankara, Hara Hara Ganga!

Himalayas The seeker asked the saint, “Who should I make pilgrimage to see here in India? Which saints can help me the most?” The saint was very old and knew many, any holy men and replied, “There is no need for you to visit holy men. Go to the Himalayas. The Kumoun Hills are especially good. Living there for a short time will further your development more than visiting holy men. But most people cannot stay in mountains for more than a few months. The energy is too pure, too intense.”

The weather in the Himalayan foothills is more pleasant than that of the plains. The mountain people are gentler than the people of the plains. The mountains themselves are awesomely beautiful, stretching over 1,500 miles with hundreds of peaks. Since the beginning of recorded time, seekers have come here to do sadhana, to seek union with their Beloved. The Himalayas are Purity.

South Indian Pilgrimage When you go on a pilgrimage the mind is directed toward God. But remember; God is within. – Yogaswami

In South India an expedition into the depths of Hinduism awaits the serious seeker. Here are six Temples, the six homes of Lord Muruga (one of the sons of Shiva/Parvati which hold a place of unexcelled prominence in the lives of South Indian Hindus.

On the pilgrimage we are going to visit the deity. We must walk into a Temple and past the onlookers, the smells, the noise and a world of distractions. We must pass out of the physical realm into the spiritual, where the bliss of the living God Shiva dwells within us and wherein we find the God Muruga. Those who are devoted to Muruga and the path of realization will give themselves up to His will and thereby imbibe His darshan. He will guide us, protect us and infuse us with inner joy.

The pilgrimage is rigorous. It takes about two weeks and it’s best to have a friend or Tamil guide along. Stay at the Temple rest houses if possible. Prepare yourself learning all you can about Indian customs, puja and Shaiva Siddhanta Temple worship.

Each of the Temples represents the living vibration of one of the chakras within man, designated as such by Lord Muruga when he walked on Earth as a man fulfilling his mission of restoring righteousness to the world. The six encampments where He stayed are now the sites of his holy ashrams.

The following map indicates the Temple sites:

Despite the backtracking involved, the Temples should definitely be worshiped in this order. Once in South India take the train to Madurai. Then bus to Tiruparamkunram, then train to Tirunelveli and bus to Trichendur. Train to Palani Temple, train Kumbakonam and bus to Swamimalai. Train to Madras and bus or train to Tirutani. Train to Madurai and bus to Paramuthirsolai.

Tiruparakunram, the first Temple, means the holy mountain of the Lord. There is also a temple for Lord Shiva here. It is carved in a gigantic rock wall at the base of hill, an awesome, beautiful beginning.

Trichendur, a favorite of devotees, is felt by all to have one of the most powerful Temple vibrations in South India. Perched on the seaside at the tip of Mother India, Trichendur calls its devotees to experience the Lord in the bliss of its creation. Trichendur means “the walls against which the roaring waves of the sea dash.” Many stories are told of deaf and blind devotees who were cured in the bliss of Land Muruga’s darshan.

Palani Temple has become a spiritual oasis and object of pilgrimage for thousands. Palani literally means “Thou art the ripe fruit.” Here, after circling the world, Lord Palani retreated as an ascetic renunciate into the depths of contemplation. The deity image here was made centuries ago by a sage who took nine medicinal herb considered poisonous of themselves, and compounded them into a sacred balm which he formed into the image of Lord Palani. It is said that prasadam (sacred food) that ha sat overnight on the deity possesses wonderful healing powers which have cue many “incurable” ailments.

Swamimalai is looked upon as the heart of the universe, representing the fourth chakra. We arrived here on Lord Muruga’s birthday. Thousands of devotees had swarmed to the Temple, and His radiant presence was felt strongly as he opened His heart to the throngs.

Tirutani Temple represents the fifth chakra. The original name of this Temple is Konduthoradal, meaning “Lord of the Mountains.”

From the peaceful shores of Trichendur to the cavernous reaches of Tiruparakunram through the hilly regions of Palani, Tirutani and Swamimalai, your pilgrimage how ends on a little secluded hillside called Paramuthirsolai, or Alakar Malai, meaning “beautiful mountain.” Being the residing point of the “third eye,” the ajna chakra, one feels a great in-turning in this compact and simple shrine.

Hidden in a hilltop glade at the end of a two mile walk through a forest of tripping streams and waterfalls, one feels this is the spot where the Lord finds rest and solace from the grandiose Temples and throngs of devotees. Here too you will find that rest and shelter after a wonderful journey through Lord Muruga’s homes.

Yet your pilgrimage cannot end here, for in the silence of your ongoing meditations, you will find Him in your heart as the spiritual truth which is the Real You. Aum tat sat – (an American Monk of Wailua University of Contemplative Arts).

Visiting Gurus in India: Hints from an American Spiritual Teacher In most cases Gurus in India will see Westerners who are sincerely interested in spiritual growth even without prior communications with them. However, here are some things that will help smooth the often very intense experience of having an audience with a Guru.

l Try to write a letter well in advance to state your interests and request a private audience. Most will reply and will say when the teacher will be in the ashram. Many Gurus travel around, so knowing where he will be when is very useful.

l Telephone ahead, if possible, when you know exactly when you expect to arrive.

l Bring a gift of flowers or a coconut or fruit or most anything (including money). Present the gift shortly after you arrive. Whether you pranam (bow down) to the Guru not is up to you. One old saint I met said that to bow down to any saint is all profit and no loss. The Guru may or may not give you prasad (blessed gift) in return, but whatever he gives you accept only with your right hand.

l Language is often a problem. While many speak English and most will have a translator, some may not and you will have to get one yourself. Try to find someone the spiritual training to prevent too much being lost in translation. Even so, “Indian English” is often very hard to understand for most Westerners. Ask the Guru to speak more slowly and listen very closely and you can get by.

l You can approach the audience two ways: one is to have prepared questions about subjects near to your heart, subjects of spiritual importance to you. Personally important questions to you get deep and valuable answers, but, most teachers will treat rhetorical and impersonal questions off-handedly. The second approach is to sit back take in the darshan (spiritual consciousness) of the Guru and respond to whatever (or she) does. If the Guru does not end the audience himself, feel free to stay until you feel you are ready to go, then ask permission to leave. Thank him (pranaming if choose) and leave.

l There is great variation of ashram customs. Watch the ashramites and try to follow. If make an unconscious error, they will quickly inform you. If you comply immediately, your mistake is quickly forgotten. On occasion Westerners are refused permission or are asked to leave an ashram. A good pilgrim will immediately comply to requests.

l Some Gurus have resident ashrams where you can stay. Others have quarters for their own students but no room for you. Be prepared to take care of yourself. Many will offer you food; accept what you like, and feel free to refuse any food you don’t want to eat. If you stay a day or more at an ashram a good rule is to give not less than $1.00 (8 rupees) per day for your room and board when you leave.

l The disciples of a Guru often try to “protect” their teacher from “outsiders” and will tell you not to bother their Guru; however, always get your messages directly to and your answers directly from the Guru himself. They are usually above all the nonsense of ashram politics.

Be open to any local religious customs a Guru may be involved in. Indians live in a different tradition and even though most gurus know it is just custom, they participate out of service to the local people.

●Because a Guru is called “baba” or “Swami” or “Yogi” or such doesn’t mean that he is an especially evolved person. Like everyone else, Gurus vary as to growth. Some do social service of feeding the poor, some are head trippers, some are very strict, other very liberal, some smoke dope, some won’t look at women, some won’t talk, some want disciples, some don’t; the variation is fantastic. (See Seeking Guidance in Handbook Section).

l Some pilgrims “click” with one Guru, some with another – take a good long look around and let what happens happen. – (Charles Berner).

Buddhist Pilgrimage Before his Parinirvana, the Buddha spoke of the four places which a pious believer should visit. They are the Lumbini grove (Nepal) where the Master was born; Bodh Gaya where he attained Enlightenment; the Deer Park at Sarnath where he set into motion the Wheel of the Law; and Kushinagar where he passed into Parinirvana.

In Buddhist sacred lore there are four other places which, together with the first four, make up the eight sanctified spots. These are Sravasti, Sankasu, Rajgir and Vaisali, the scenes of the four principal miracles that the Blessed One performed.

Pilgrims through the ages have visited these places consecrated by the Buddha’s presence. The Emperor Asoka was one such pilgrim and he called such pilgrimages Dharmayatra or Tours of Piety. Today, the modern pilgrim undertaking the ancient pilgrimage includes in his tour the great centers of Buddhist art; Sanchi and Bharhut, Amaravati and Nagarjunakonda, Ajanta and Ellora, Karla and Bhaja. These represent a wealth of painting and carving, sculpture and architecture, arts that drew their inspiration from the life and teaching of the Buddha. The splendor and magnificence of these have attracted visitors regardless of their faith and they are monumental testimonies to the creative force of Buddhism.

EARTHPLANE GETTING THERE: Being prepared for India is an easy matter these days. Indian consulates are very helpful and provide excellent info. Most international airlines have a relatively inexpensive four-month round trip fare Regular air excursions seem to be the cheapest way to get to Asia by way of the Pacific.

VISAS: Situation often changes. Consult officials and travelers for the latest info Apply in your home country. If refused try again en route. When applying, look neat. You may be asked to show a round trip ticket or money. Ask for a three month tourist visa. If you ask for more time or say you’re going for religious purposes, your application may be sent to Delhi for months of paperwork. After 10 weeks in India you must register at a foreigner’s registration office. If possible, do so in the south – Benares or a less traveled spot – and attempt to establish good rapport with the officials. Here you may apply for a one-to-three-month extension. After six months you can apply for a year visa – difficult. If refused you can appeal. Otherwise, you must leave for six months (to Nepal or Sri Lanka) and then re-enter. If you leave India (to Nepal) within your six months visa and wish to return, they will give you what is left of your six month visa only However, if you fly into India you automatically get a 28 day landing permit Whenever you have an agreement with an official, get it in writing.

MONEY: Banks are bastions of inefficiency – waiting lines and red tape but ultimately your traveler’s checks are cashed and you are on your way. Do not accept very old or torn bills, as neither banks nor merchants will take them in transactions. If you have such money, only the Reserve Bank of India (branches in major cities) will exchange them, and it takes both paperwork and several days’ time. Few merchants have change for bills larger than 10 rupees, so it is best to keep money in small denominations.

HEALTH: Illness is a very low-keyed thing in India. Sickness is just another act of life and is treated with great calm and usually with ayurvedic (herbal) or homeopathic cures. While here your body will go through great changes, but if you take care, have knowledge and are living in the spirit there is no need to Worry. Throughout India pharmacies are well-stocked with traditional medicines and toiletries (except good shampoo, dental floss and hair bands). Public dispensaries are available throughout the Himalayas. There are good Catholic-American hospitals outside Bombay and New Delhi, various other health facilities are listed by city. (See Health Section). During the Hot and Monsoon period in India and Nepal, April through Aug., sickness increases. To help avoid gastrointestinal disorders eat one raw onion or raw garlic everyday; 2-3 dried cloves twice a day are also helpful.

FOODSCENE: Be moderate with fried foods since oil is often bad and fried food in general will effect the liver adversely. Rice, dahl, curd, whole wheat Chapatis, cooked vegetables are the basic Indian food. Western unspiced food is available in the cities. Raw salads in general should be avoided. Water should be boiled and filtered. Food in India is hot and spicy. Take it easy on chilis, sweets and food from street vendors. Kwality restaurants are generally good and clean throughout India, but expensive by Indian standards. Take a small stove to prepare healthy food when not available. (See city listings) Wherever you are received as a guest in India, there’s bound to be lots of food. Food is the essential vehicle for exchanging love, and the whole ritual must be approached with great sensitivity. Begin by washing the hands and mouth and eating with the right and only. The mountains of treats are prepared and served with care and affection, and the only way to return the love is to eat as much as you can. Always Empty your plate! Since you can never eat enough to please your host, the gastronomical situation may become delicate – but there is always a way of folding the hands and lovingly saying enough. After the meal take your dish to the washing area and again wash your hands and mouth.

LODGINGS: Stay in healthy surroundings, not necessarily the cheapest. Some theap places where Westerners congregate soon become disease and rip-off enters. Aside from traditional hotels the pilgrim may select from a range of lodgings. Government-run guest houses (dak bungalows) are generally well-kept and inexpensive. Many ashrams provide lodgings for Westerners for a small fee; write ahead. Serious spiritual travelers can stay at Sikh temples (Gurudwaras) throughout India. Throughout India there are dharamsalas, sometimes holy spots in their own right, which serve as cheap hotels for Indian pilgrims. If referred by an ashram, Westerners may stay there.

TRANSPORTATION: Planes are very expensive and in vacation seasons, very crowded. Book in advance. Hitching is uncommon but possible. Many trucks are marked “public carrier” and arrangements with drivers can be made. Not Recommended for single ladies.

Travel, except by plane, is at best tiring, at worst real torture to both flesh and mind. Overpopulation has greatly overtaxed all existing public systems – purchasing a train ticket may involve a whole morning of standing in lines; getting on a train is a mass rush which involves shoving, pushing and fighting for a seat – the polite Westerner who allows someone ahead of him in the crush may well find he cannot get on the train at all. For the second-class traveler it is advisable to bring something aboard to cushion the seat – a shawl or sleeping bag is ideal. Noise levels aboard any conveyance may astound you – often conversation with companions is difficult.

The trains go everywhere and everyone seems to be aboard. A westerner can usually afford sleeping berths and first class travel, but to really feel India, take ‘second class” for a brief jaunt or “second class reserved” for a longer journey, They say “there’s always room for one more,” so a compartment for 8 holds least 12. Inside there’s an incredible scene with passengers draped on the luggage racks or squatting on the floor. Hardly anything should come as a prise. A kind mother might stuff you with food or very gradually push you off the end of the bench. Everybody will find you very interesting and you will share the 100th time, with great love, the eternal conversation which begins, “From where are you coming? What is your purpose?” Outside, Mother India slips by in an endless succession of fields and paddies, water buffaloes, tiny villages of mud and thatch, ox carts, cowherds and naked children. On the train you get a special sense of the agelessness of India and the poignancy of the human condition. – (Amazing Grace).

On 2nd class trains try and get reserved sleepers for overnight journeys. Bring a foam mattress or soft blanket or sleeping bag. Always try and get a reserved seat. You can just board the reserved compartment sometimes and pay 1/2 rupee more. It’s worth it! Train travel is far less crowded in South India. Bring your own food and drink on trains-don’t buy from vendors or even train meals. For long journeys ask for top bunks so you can stretch out during the day too. There is a special tourist quota which you should ask for if you can’t get sleeper reservations. If you have a student card you receive 50% reduction on 2nd class and 15% on 1st class. Train stations have showers where you can refresh and change after a journey. In Rickshaws and taxis bargain, fix price or check to see their meter, and ask if it is a new rate. Be careful! – (Parmatma Singh).

WHAT TO CARRY – As little as possible since you’ll probably be buying stull along the way. You can send parcels “gift parcel under 50 rupees” by sea mail This is a good way to send used clothing. It takes 3 to 4 months to USA and Europe. Carry adequate clothing, first aid kit, a book or two, pens and pencils, paper, etc. A soft cushion, foam mattress etc. is light and very useful. In India you can get attractive bags made for very little money. Also India is a good place to stock up on clothes for return to the West. We had special shirts made with front pocket and zipper, and kept all valuables there. Some put them in a Nylon stocking and tie them around waist. Money bags around neck and shoulders are O.K., but can be cut or lost. Keeping valuables in a bag is risky because of forgetfulness. – (Parmatma Singh).

BARGAINING – In India you do it for just about everything. Many times you should offer half or less of asking price.

REGIONS & WEATHER: Hot seasons before the rains: Shortages of food, water and power often create problems. Good time to be by the sea. Monsoon: Late May through Aug. Begins in the south and works its way north. Plains may be uncomfortable and unhealthy. Best to head for the mountains. Post-Monsoon Period: Sept. or Oct. to Nov. Winter Season: Dec. to Feb. North Regions: The foothills are most divine during summer, late spring and early fall. With winter, supplies are usually low and reserved for locals. Many villagers go south a snows and lack of adequate housing and heating create hardships. South Regions: Most Westerners have difficulty adjusting to the hot tropical climate There are two rainy seasons. One in late May – July and a lighter one in Nov. and Dec. In the heat it’s wise to carry little baggage, eat lightly and in some area carry mosquito netting. Spring and fall are good times to visit. Eastern Plains: summers are unbearably hot. In monsoon there is much flooding. Winters are chilly, but without snow. Nov. to Feb. are good times to visit.

STATES OF INDIA Andhra Pradesh (AP), Assam, Bihar, Goa, Gujarat, Haryana Himachal Pradesh (HP), Jammu/Kashmir, Kerala, Madhya Pradesh (MP), Maharashtra, Manipur, Mysore, Nagaland, Orrisa, Punjab, Rajasthan, Sikkim, Tamil Nadu, (TN) Uttar Pradesh (UP) and West Bengal.

RELIGIONS (In order of importance) Hindu, Moslem, Christian, Sikh, Jain, Parsee (Zoroastrian), Buddhist, Animist, Jewish.

A Six Month Itinerary This itinerary takes in mainly Indian religious and spiritual pilgrimage sites including Ashrams and Holy Men but it also includes areas of good, clean beaches and mountains. It is based on arrival and departure from Delhi, arriving Oct. 1, departing before May 1, including weeks in Nepal. It is for 6 months – the usual tourist visa. The time period also avoids both Monsoon and most of the hot weather and covers most of India. It follows closely a trip made by Parmatma Singh Khalsa (this book’s editor) in 1975, although it is more expanded. All places on this itinerary are written up in section. Time for visiting each place may be varied. Most travel is by train.

Oct. 1 ARRIVAL-DELHI Delhi – Sikh & Sufi sites, Ashrams. Hardwar-Rishikesh Ashrams, Ganges, Himalayas. Dehradun – Ashrams, Ganges, Himalayas (Kedernath, Bodinath). Almora – Ashrams, Ganges, Himalayas. Corbett Park -animals.

Oct. 15 PUNJAB & HIMALAYAS Chandigarh – Modern. Road connection to Kulu. Kulu Valley – Himalayas, fruit. Dharmshala -Tibetans, Dalai Lama. Amritsar/Punjab – Golden Temple & Sikh shrines.

Nov, 1 DELHI Brindavan/Mathura Area -Lord Krishna. Agra/Fathepur Sikri Taj Mahal, Art & Architecture.

Nov. 7 RAJASTHAN – color, desert sunsets, mellow. Jaipur – Palaces & museum – sheer tourism but mellow. (Also other areas Rajasthan such as Udaipur, Jodhpur). Ajmer/Pushkar – Sufi Saints, Pushkar fair Nov. full moon. (one week) Mount Abu -Fantastic Jain temples, Vimala Thaker.

Nov. 15 GUJARAT – Here are several Jain & Hindu pilgrimage sites plus mellow people, few westerners. Birthplace & stronghold of Ghandi (Surat). Dwarka – Lord Krishna Palitana – Jain. Modhera – Sun Temple. Ahmedabad – Ghandi Ashram. Baroda – Kripalu Ashram. Sanchi – here a trip to Sanchi-Buddhi site could be made – although very far. Then continue to Ajanta/Ellora of Train Baroda-Surat-Jalgaon-Bus Ajanta Ellora – Aurangabad – Ahmadna (Meher Baba) – Poona – Bombay Ajanta & Ellora – Buddhist, Jain, Hindu Caves. Poona – Ashrams; Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh, Meher Baba.

Dec. 1 BOMBAY AREA – Elephanta Caves, Ashrams – Ganeshpuri (Swami Muktananda)

Dec. 25 GOA – (by boat from Bombay) Christmas – Christians, beaches, fill sunsets. (1-2 wks.)

Jan. 1 MYSORE Halebid & Belur – Temples (railhead is Arsikere) Bangalore – Satya Sai Baba, mellow city. Mysore City – Somnathpur temple (from here Ootacamund and other Nilgri Hill Stations can be visited.) Bylakuppe – Tibetas communities and monasteries (on main road between Mysore City and Mercara).

Jan. 10 KERALA Kanhangad – Anand Ashram (Swami Ramdas & Mother Krishnabai). Payanur Gurukula (south of Kanhangad). Cochin – Boat tour Jewish Synagogue, Churches, Katakali Dance Theatre, very tropical. Take a bus from Cochin to Allepey then Allepey to Kottayam by boat (4 hrs.) through backwater tropical paradise (trip can also be done in reverse). Kottayam – Periya Lake Game Reserve – Periyar – Madurai. Continue South from Kottayam/Allepey to Trivandrum and Kovalam Beach. Then to Kanya Kumari (Cape Comorin). Here Vivekananda meditated before going to USA.

Feb. 1 SOUTH INDIA Many temple towns to be visited – see tourist office and Pilgrims Guide. Madurai – Meenakshi temple. Heart of Tamil Nadu and Sou Indian Hinduism. Rameshwaram to Ceylon (Sri Lanka) there are two boats/trains weekly. Trichi – temples, Nearby in Kulitalai is Shanti Vanam, a wonderful Hindu/Christian Ashram. Thanjavor – temple. Chidambaram – temple Nataraj. Pondicherry – Sri Aurobindo Ashram/Auroville (one week). Tiruvannamalai/Poondi – Arunchala Hill and temple & Darshan of several saints. Kanchipuram – Varanasi of the south, many temples, Sadhus, saints. Madras/Adyar – South Indian music and dance. Museum and Theosophical Society HQ. Mahabalipuram – Rock Carvings.

Feb. 15 ORISSA – take express train from Madras to Bhubaneswar Bhubaneswar – temples. Puri – temples, Cart Festival in July. Konarak – Sun temple. Cuttack – Anamist tribes can be visited from here.

Feb. 20 WEST BENGAL Calcutta – Many sites of Ramakrishna Shanti Niketan – Tagore University. From here you can visit Darjeeling, then enter Nepal. It also possible to go to Bhutan, Sikkim, or extreme west of India. Most of the places need special permits obtainable in Calcutta or New Delhi. BIHAR Gayal – Bodh Gaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Vaishala – sites sacred to Lord Buddha. Patna – Birthplace of Guru Gobind Singh and place to fly to Kathmandu from.

March 1 NEPAL – Buddhist/Hindu sites, Trekking, lots of Westerners. (1-3 wks).

March 10 VARANASI – (Benares) The Ganges, Sacred to Lord Shiva (1 wk).

March 15 Sarnath – Lord Buddha (near Varanasi). 7 hrs. by bus, nice place to stay though. Allahabad – three Sacred Rivers. Chitrakuth – Sacred to Lord Rama. Khajurao – temples.

March 25 DELHI – Sites not visited at beginning can be visited. Final shopping. Take train or bus, or fly Srinagar.

April 1 KASHMIR – Moslem/Hindu (Srinigar) mountains. Amarnath Cave Hindu, Siva lingum.

April 10 – May 1 DEPARTURE-DELHI Early, or two extra wks. free time.

CELEBRATIONS JAN: Pongal-Sankranti; 3 day harvest festival; Madras, Mysore, Andra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu states.

Idu’s Zuha (Bakrid); Moslem, commemorates sacrifice of Abraham, ceremonies in mosques, feasting and rejoicing at home; Calcutta, Delhi, Lucknow, Hyderabad, Cochin.

FEB-MAR: Muharran: Colorful Moslem celebration commemorating the martyrdom Mohammed’s grandson. Tiger dances and processions in Lucknow, Delhi.

Saraswati Pujana; Celebration to Goddess of Music, Learning and Wisdom by students and musicians wearing yellow.

Tibetan New Year. Celebrated by Tibetan camps throughout India and Nepal for 10 days. Religious ceremonies, music, folk dancing and drinking “chong” (a home brew alcoholic yogurt) are the main foci of the villagers’ energies at this time. Visitors welcome.

Goa Carnival; Christian celebration, the 3 days preceding Lent; like Mardi Gras. Kumba Mela According to Hindu mythology, when the world was created the Gods (Surs) and Demons (Asurs) jointly churned the oceans 14 times – skimming from the surface waters a pitcher of nectar. This nectar had great spiritual value to the Gods and they removed it from the presence of the demons.

In the process of carrying it away, Jayant (a young son of one of the Gods) spilled four ops on the Earth. One of the drops landed at Hardwar, another at Allahabad downstream from Hardwar on the River Ganges, another at Nasik on the Godwari Hiver, the last at Ujain on the River Sipra, near Madya Pradesh. All of these places became holy cities – the sites of the Kumba Mela Festival which is held once every 12 years respectively in each city.

The Kumba Mela is the spiritual festival of spiritual festivals. It is held when the Sun Entering Capricorn (makara rashi) coincides with the appearance of Jupiter in Aquarius (kumbh).

MAR-APR: Shiva Ratri; Mar. 3 throughout India; 24 hours of austerities, fasting and all-night vigil of songs to Shiva, special celebrations in Shiva temples in Chidamaram, Kharjarahb, Kalahash, Srisailam and Varanasi. Also celebrated in Kathmandu, Nepal, at the Pashupatinath Temple.

Holi; Mar. 19. Rowdy celebration commemorating the sack of a Rishi’s daughter; paint and ink dowsing on streets; Westerners are prime targets.

Gangor; Fortnight after Holi; procession to Parvati in Jaipur; in Udaipur a women’s Procession to Gauri temple.

Doljatrau; in Bengal; to Vishnu – similar to Gangor.

Ramanauami; Ram’s birthday (Apr. 11); large pilgrimages to Ayodha and Chitra Koot.

Baisakhi; Apr. 13. Hindu solar New Year; Birth of Khalsa, Brotherhood of baptized Sikhs at Anandpur Sahib.

APR-MAY: Meenkashi-Kalyanam; Wedding of Shiva and Meenkashi; most colorful procession and music in Madurai.

Buddha Purnima; Buddha’s Birthday; full moon in May; large pilgrimages to Bodh Gaya and Lambini, Nepal.

JUN JUL: Guru Purnima; throughout India; festivals worshiping gurus.

Rathyatra; Processions in honor of Jagannath (Lord of the Universe); thousands of pilgrims go to Jagannath Puri, Serampore, Varanasi.

AUG: Raksha Bandan; North and west Indian celebration of Indra’s victory over demons.

Jammastami; Aug. 21, Krishna’s birth. Pilgrimages to Brindavan and Mathura. Celebrated throughout India.

Ganesh Cathurti; Procession ending at sea or lake to Ganesh, the elephant-headed God. Especially in Bombay, Madras, Maharashtra and Poona.

OCT: Durga Puja; Oct. 18; 9 days of sacrificial rites to Durga, aspect of the Divine Mother; Bengal has large celebration.

Busschara (Ramilia, in North); Oct. 4-5. Celebrated throughout India for 10 days; Ram’s victory over evil Ravana; purification of sins.

Diwali (Kali Puja in E. India); Oct. 25. Indian New Year, Festival of Lights to Lakshmi, goddess of prosperity, and goddess Kali.

NOV: Nanak Jayanti; Birthday of Guru Nanak, great ecumenical saint and founder of Sikhism; 2 days and nights preceding Jayanti procession; the Guru Granth Sahib is read continuously. Most impressive is Amritsar.

Adyar (TN) A suburb of Madras.

Center: KRISHNAMURTI FND. Vasanta Vihar, 3 Greenways Rd. Write for dates of “K’s” talks, usually Dec. through Jan. Mr. Patwardan, Mgr.

THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY Int’l H.Q., Pres. John Coats. Extraordinary library grounds including worlds largest Banyan tree. Accommodation possible – write first.

School: KALAKSHETRA DANCE SCHOOL Considered Madras’ artist colony, Westerners attend dance and music classes here. The last week of Dec. a special dance/music festival is held. Started by Rukmini Devi a Theosophist

Agra (UP) The Taj Mahal near Agra on the sacred Jumna River was built by Mogul Shah Jehan as a monument to the beauty of his deceased wife. Und direction 20,000 craftsmen decorated the highly polished marble walls intricate lace-like carvings, semi-precious stones and quotations from Koran. Beautifully sculptured gardens and long, deep pools surround the buildings which contain the tombs of the Shah and his beloved. During the full the gardens and buildings are open until 11:30 p.m.

Ahmedabad (Gujarat) Center: ISKCON 7 Kailas Society, Ashram Rd., 1, Gujart. VIMALA THAKAR Her secretary T. Shah, 19 New Brahmakshinga, Ellis Bridge. For correspondence only.

Ashram: GHANDI ASHRAM historical place where Mahatma Ghandi did his work. Across the river there is a memorial, library and Harijan school community. Accommodation available in modern guesthouse. Write first.

YOGA SADHANA ASHRAM 16 Pritam, Nagar, Ellis Beidge, Ahmab. 6.

Ahmednagar (MS) Center: MEHER BABA CENTRE King’s Rd. Meher Baba’s tomb and ashram for many years. Will provide literature and info on activities throughout India.

Ajanta Represents the finest flowering of Buddhist art in India. Carved out of rock in a crescent shaped cliff over-looking the gorge of the rushing Wag River, the 29 carved, painted and sculptored caves were accidentally disco by a party of hunters in 1819. Ajanta dates back to the 2nd cent. B.C. It was site of a Buddhist monastery where generations of monks lived in religious seclusion until the 7th cent. A.D. and carved the cliff side into a monumental shrine of Buddhism. Magnificent facades and statues were hewn out of hard and the walls of the caves were embellished with some of the most celebrated frescoes in the world. The subjects of Ajanta are the life of the Buddha and the Buddhist Jatakas. In rich earth colors and flowing lines, the frescoes bring to vivid life the civilization and culture of a whole era. The best preserved and the greatest interest are Caves 1,2, 4, 10, 16, 17, 19, 24 and 26. There is an whelming vibration.

Ajmer (Raj) Here is the Durga (Tomb) of Hazrat Khwaja Moin-ud-Din Chisti  founder of Chisti Sufis. It is an important pilgrimage site for Moslems and Inside the tomb itself is a powerful vibration (Baraka). Every night especially on Thursdays there is an Awali, ecstatic music and singing in memory of saints. Nearby is sacred Lake Pushkar (See Pushkar).

Alandi (Mahar.) Here the great 13th cent. saint of Maharastra, Janeshwar Mahraj, left his body still vibrating with spiritual energy. Beautiful village beaches, near Bombay.

Allahabad (UP) Here the lifestreams of India come together as three sacred rivers meet; the Ganges, the Jumna and the mythical Saraswati. Most auspicious time for bathing is during the January full moon. Row with a Brahmin to the bank in mid-river; immerse yourself in the river’s pure energy.

Ashram: VISHUA SHANTI ASHRAM Sukhdev Bhavan, Kalyani Devi, Allab. 3.

Almora (UP) Situated in the foothills of the Himalayas Almora is 4,000-7,000 high. There is a break in the Van Allen Belt over Almora, which accounts for the energy concentration here. Those who are in harmony with the energy benefit; those who are not will feel intensely uncomfortable and possibly freak out. (Charles Berner)

This small, ancient town was once the main staging post for Indians pilgrimaging to Kailash (Himalayan abode of Shiva) and the sacred Manasar Lake now in Chinese Tibet. Mentioned in several ancient texts, the sad shapped ridge upon which the town stands rises from the Kosi river, less than 100m. above sea level, to a peak in pine forests nearly 1000 m. higher, where stand the old and partially destroyed and rebuilt temples of Kasar Devi and her conort Kasar Dev, who are equated with Durga and Shiva. Legend has it that Shankaracharya visited this site in the 7th cent. A.D. Certainly Swami Vivekananda meditated here at the turn of this century. Almora town itself has many ancient shrines and holy springs, but the chief attractions to pilgrims lie in the surrounding area. Where there are roads there is reasonable bus service, but whole area has a fine network of foot trails. In fall, spring and winter, when high peaks of the Trisul/Nanda Devi massif of the central Himalaya are in ew, it is superb trekking country.

Above Almora town there stands the ridge, for long known affectionately but officially as “Cranks’ Ridge,” because of the many Western contemplatives who have lived here. These include Dr. Evans Wentz, who translated The Tibetan Book of the Dead; Lama Govinda, the Austrian authority on Tibetan Buddhism; and Sunyata, a Dane who started life as a gardener, then spent 40 years in India, much of the time alone and in silence. In the order in which one to them on the road now being constructed along the ridge are the following places of interest to the pilgrim.

Tara’s Tea Shop Here one may find tea, coffee, wholesome snacks and most essential dry goods for sale. Tara also sells local honey, peanut butter and ese. All info. concerning rooms to let or places to trek to may be had at this place, Nearby is the Epworth Estate, owned by Christian missionaries, where one may sometimes rent living space. Further on one comes to Snow View, ther colonial-era estate, where there are the largest number of rooms to let in area. All along the ridge one can find small rooms and houses of Indian-style (i.e. with mud floors and glassless windows), which are usually cheaper than those in the British built houses. Kalimat Ashram, once Sunyata’s home, now owned by the Naga (sadhu) Mahant of Bageshwar (local Hindu pilgrim center) several rooms to let. A sadhu caretaker stays here, but there is no ashram life Foutine, apart from dawn and dusk “Arti Puja” in the temple there. Pratap Singh’s Tea Shop at Kalimat is a fine place to see the snow mountains from. Many travelers rest there awhile. From there a short path through the pines es one to the Kasar Devi Temple. Beyond the temple stands the Tibetan Drigung Kargyu Ashram established by “Guru” Lama and his wife, Sonam Choedon, at the place where Evans Wentz and Lama Govinda once lived. They have living space for a few people practicing Buddha Dharma. Not far from here the village of Kathpuria, where one may easily find a cheap room through ther Dilip Singh or Ram Singh, who both have tea shops there and have been village headmen. Much further up, but in view, lies Binsar Mountain, from the Sanskrit name of the temple there, Vineshwar, Shiva as the Lord of Music. Here re are several British-built estates, but the only one with regular and long-term lodging is the Khali Estate.

The area around Almora abounds with ancient temples. Bageshwar, Baijnath and temples of Dwarahat are all worth visiting, but one certainly shouldn’t come to this district and not go to Jageshwar, where superb 7th to 17th cent. temples stand amidst the only substantial virgin cedar forest in the region. The only bus for Jageshwar arrives at dusk and leaves again the following morning. It is better to stay a few days there, either at Forest Rest House (booked only om Almora) or in a private house. Above Jageshwar on all sides stand other interesting ancient sites, as they do on virtually all the hilltops in the entire district. This part of India isn’t as frequented by tourists as are other parts of the Himalayas – (Jasper Newsome). (ed. note: Jasper, who has known Almora for 11 years, has written a book on Hindu sadhus, ancient psychedelics, and reincarnation.)

Center: DR. BINDU Down the stairs between gas station and sweetshop. Outstanding knowledge of Hindu and other religions. Alchemist. Exceptional ability in reading minds.

GURU LAMA & WIFE SONAM Tibetan Lama living in Gompa on Crank’s Ridge Rd.

PROF. M.D. PANT Head of Sanskrit Dept., Malla Dani Ya, Almora Hills. Teacher of Sanskrit and Hindi. Skilled in teaching Westerners. Excellent guide; entree to most spiritual people in Almora.

Health: RESEARCH INST. OF NATURECURE & YOGATHERAPY Dir. Dr. Ved Vish shanand, N.T.D. Almora. Resort.

Lodging: EPWORTH HOUSE On Crank’s Rd., for reservation contact Irene Masch, Principal, Adam’s Girls College. 4 bedroom suites with cooking facilities and utensils.

GOVERNMENT DAK BUNGALOWS There are two of them; one near Brighton Corne and the other in the town center, nr. the Gandhi Statue. Both are very clean and have bathrooms.

HOTEL NEELKANTH Kumaon Hills.  32.

Other: STUPA FOR EVANS-WENTZ Near Crank’s Ridge Rd.

Amarnath Cave (Kashmir) Trek from Pahalgam, five hours by bus from Shrinagar, Not accessible in winter. Hollowed out of a mountainside at 16,000 feet is Amarnath Cave where Lord Shiva taught his consort Parvati the secrets of the universe. Inside is a large Shiva lingam naturally formed from ice that waxes and wanes with the moon. It reaches its fullest height, sometimes eight feet or more, on the full moon of the month of Sawan (July-August). This is when thousands of pilgrims journey in one large devotional community for the 70 mile trek.

Westerners are welcome at this time-or may prefer to travel by themselves short before or after the main yatra (procession). The Tourist Bureau gives complete advice Supplies and guides are available at the base camp in Pahalgam, Kashmir. The yatra a physical ordeal and conditions may be hazardous. For those with less endurance, Himalayan ponies may be rented – but this is a different kind of pilgrimage.

The Amarnath yatra follows the course of a falling river, higher and higher in mountains, past myriad waterfalls, wildflower meadows ablaze, and primeval forests. Four days above treeline, rugged moonscape, marmots whistling, eagles circling walking on the path all alone with God is a pure allegory for our eternal journey, (Namah Shivaya keeps cadence on tongue and feet – it’s all going on Grace; the step depends on the first, and the first depends on the last – open to boundless energy and the cave-charged by offerings of intense devotion brought by Godseekers through the Yugas. – (Amazing Grace)

Amritsar (Punjab) THE GOLDEN TEMPLE (HARI MANDIR) at Amritsar in the Punjab is an extraordinary site of divine worship. Here Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh Guru, laid the foundation for a spiritual center where all people of the world could come cleanse their karmas and be one with the Divine. Although visited mostly by Sikhs, was built with four entrances, signifying that it is open to all religions.

The Holy Name has been chanted here continuously for hundreds of years. Marvelous musicians thrill the devotees into ecstasy day and night. In November thousand honor the birth of Guru Nanak, the great Indian Saint who founded Sikhism and who is revered by Hindus and Moslems as well.

An incredible vision by moonlight, the temple is open to all pilgrims, offering free food and lodging for three days at the surrounding shelters. A day’s trip Amritsar are many other sacred Sikh temples and shrines such as Goinwal Taran Taran. For full info. and assistance consult Information officer Clocktower, Golden Temple, Amritsar.

Asirvanam (Mysore) Monastery: ST BENDICT’S PRIORY Kengeri, South India.

Auroville There should be somewhere upon earth; a place that no nation could claim as its sole property, a place where all could live freely as citizens of the world…A Dream, The Mother.

Auroville has formerly emerged, a laboratory for the conscious evolution and the dwellers of that city…Presently some 350 inhabitants from six continent people more than twelve seed-communities. An embryonic global township is the person of the Mother, under whose guidance the Sri Aurobindo Ashram evolved, is found the lever that precipitated Auroville’s birth…

It should be clear that Auroville has no way. The way is in the making, defining itself through its efforts as it goes along.

Auroville is situated upon a plateau along the Bay of Bengal on the southeastern coast of India, near Pondicherry. The proposed land mass extends kilometres in diameter to be comprised of a central township area surrounded an encircling Green Belt of 6,000 acres.

Why India? Why not a more stable Western environment? Aside from the more profound implications, three practical reasons present themselves: Firstly, were the experiment which Auroville represents to be initially attempted in the West, it would immediately undermine one of its fundamental themes, global integration. It would be inaccessible to the average Asian, certainly the villager, eliminating half the world and reducing the attempt to an exclusive social and economic grouping. Secondly situated in the West, vulnerability to corruption – commercialism, faddism, extremism – would be much greater, threatening and distorting the potential for a true evolution from within. Thirdly, precisely because of India’s predicament, a metaphor of the world’s intensities, it is perhaps most in need of an alternative model.

One can stay and work at Auroville even for only a week. There is also a guest house there, Ami. The best way to get around is by cycle which can be rented in Pondicherry 6 km away. Otherwise there is an afternoon tour at 2:00 p.m. Workers also go out on a schoolbus in the morning.

Ayodha Birthplace and capital of Lord Rama. Many temples and sadhus. Large festival here during Ramanauami (April).

Bangalore (Mysore) A modern, restful city with a good climate.

Center: VISHUA NEEDAM 13 Km on the Magadi Rd., is a Vinoba Bhave inspired farm and international Sarvodaya center. They believe in the unity of all religions and conduct social action with spiritual direction.

VISHWA YOGA SAMAJ 4th fl., Bank of India Bldg., Kempegowda Rd., Bangalore-9. Sponsors of World-Wide Yoga Science Congress, 1970.

Ashram: DASASHRAM INT’L HEADQUARTERS 175 V Block, Rajajinagar, Bangalore 10.  8939. Sant Keshavadas is a master vocalist.

SHIVA BALA YOGA Ashram near Banneree Ghatta.

School: FRIENDS WORLD COLLEGE c/o E. P. Menon, Int’l Sarvidaya Center, Vallabhniketan, Kumara Park East, Bang. 1.

MAHA MAYA/ U.S. KRISHNA RAO 7/2A Palace Cross Rd,. Bangalore 20. In this small theatre in their home the dance couple U.S. Krishna Rao and U.K. Chandrabhaga teach and stage performances of Bharata Natyam, classical South Indian dance. They have taught many years in the west and have many Western students. Classes may be observed. Write first.

Lodging: BHARAT HOTEL Near Central Railway and Bus stations. Good for a short stay. Clean-inexpensive w/ hot water.

WOODLANDS HOTEL For first-class accommodations and Indian vege. food.

Barlow Ganj Center: SAKYA COLLEGE c/o Khenpo Appey, PO Barlow Ganj, District Dehra Dun, A teacher training college for Tibetan refugees of Sakya order.

Bareilly (UP) Ashram: SATYAM SHIVAM SUNDARAM 234 Sahukara.

Baroda (Guj) Ashram: KRIPALU YOGA ASHRAM PO Kayavarahan, via Miayagam. Swami Shri Kripaluanandji. Two of his well-known disciples in the West Amrit Desai and Yogeshwarmuni.

Beas Ashram: RADHA SOAMI SATSANG Dera Baba Jaimal Singh, Via Beas, Dist. Amritsar  Rayya 50. A self-sufficient colony of 500 Indian disciples. Maharaj Charan Singh, grandson and spiritual successor of Huzar Sawan Singh Mahar teaches Surad Shabd Yoga. Come only with prior permission.

Bersana (UP) Birthplace of Radha. Lovely spot.

Belur Math Center: SWAMI RANGANATHANANDA Memlur, Governing Body. The Ramakrishna Mission. West Bengal.

Bhavnagar (Guj) Center: INT’L SPIRITUAL ASSN & YOGA INST. LIG 567, Ong Anand Nagar, Bhavnagar.  6886. Swami Prabhanand.

Bhubaneswar (Orissa) Called the “Cathedral City” of India because of its hundreds of temples. These fine examples of Orissan art date from 3rd cent. B.C. to 16th cent. A.D. The Bindu Sagar, “sacred lake” in the center once had 700 temple around its shores, now there are 500. It is still an important pilgrimage site. The Great Lingaraj Temple is acclaimed as the finest Hindu temple in India. Tagore says of Bhubaneswar “At all places where the eye rests, and at places where the eye does not rest, the busy chisel of the artist has worked incessantly. The abode of God has been enveloped by a variety of figures depicting the good and the evil, the great as well as the insignificant, the daily occurrences of human life. (Their message is that). God is enshrined within our hearts. He stands in silence in the midst of life and death, of joy and sorrows, of sins and blessings, and in the heart of separation and union. This life is Eternal Temple.”

Bihar Shariff (Bihar) Other: TOMB OF MOHAMMEDON SHAH famous Sufi saint. Highly charged atmosphere.

Bodh-Gaya (Bihar) This is the sacred site where, about 600 B.C. Guatama Siddhartha Sakya let go of all ego-concepts and striving, saw the world will total clarity and precision, attaining supreme, perfect insight and became Buddha ; The Enlightened One. Sitting on the “Diamond Seat” beneath the revered Bodhi Tree of Wisdom he could see the Mahakala Cave on the near distant hill where he ended six years of obsessional but futile self-torture. Confusion now penetrated, he refreshed himself in the nearby Lotus Pond surrounded by floral gardens and the Jewel Shrine Walk. Soon after he gave his first Teaching, setting the Wheel of The Dharma in motion, and accepted hi disciples. The Maha-Bodhi Temple, an exquisite 200 ft. tapering stone-sculptured tower and handsome stupas erected by ancient devotees, makes visable the presence that once graced the Center of the Buddhist Universe – Bodh-Gaya Monasteries, temples and colorfully robed monks representing the great variety of Buddhist countries can be visited in this one holy pace. Nov, thru March is best for a pilgrimage; Jan. is the Int’l East/West Buddhist Celebrations In May on the full moon is the Thrice-Blessed Day of Buddha’s birth Enlightenment and final passing. – Pari-Nirvana

Center: INT’L MEDITATION CENTRE at Magadha Univ. Rd. Junction. Sri Acharya Anagarika Munindra’s home center when not teaching abroad. Vipassana insight meditation cultivated with the Burmese Satipatthana (awareness) Technique and Buddha-Dharma Teachings are given. Write for dates; Ven Rastrapal Maha Thera c/o IMC Bodh-Gaya.

JAPANESE TEMPLE Rev. Shibuya-Koan, abbot and Zen master speaks fluent English. Daily Zen classes and Zazen sittings in a large classical Temple.

SRI MUNINDRA Samanvaya Ashram. Sincere seekers may obtain individual instruction in Vipassana Meditation from this teacher. He also occasionally give courses at the Burmese Vihara.

Bookstore: MAHABODHI RESTHOUSE BOOKSTALL Buddhist Dharma and meditation books.

Lodging: BURMESE VIHARA, TIBETAN GUEST HOUSE, TOURIST BUNGALOW & DORMITORY.

Bombay (Mahar) Crossroads of North and South, cross-section of religions, Bombay has it all: crowds, filth, beggars, unique bazaars, good restaurants, fine arts, thousands of temples, many saints and an ecumenical stream of Sikhs, Moslems, Sufis, Hindus, Buddhists, Jains, Parsees, Christians and Jews.

CHOWPATI BEACH Along Marine Drive. Although too dirty for swimming, much Indian life can be felt here. Early morning puja and meditations. Bel puri (fried breads) and coconut stands. At sunset Indians come and socialize.

BULESHWARA MARKET Many Temples of Maha Laxmi and Shanti Devi. In season can purchase lotus flowers. Many good dairy bars, sweetshops and fresh getables. Best to go early in the morning.

CHOWR BAZAAR & BINDI BAZAAR Mainly Moslem; here you can get almost everything, buy, sell or trade. Many Moslem mosques and shrines.

CRAWFORD MARKET Blocks and blocks of everything from dried fruits and nuts to cloth.

ELEPHANTA From Gateway Of India boats go to Elephanta Caves where there are rock carvings (Hindu). Also one can go by boat from Bombay to Goa (24 hrs).

Center: BHARATI YOGA EDUCATION CENTRE 235 Jawahar Nagar, Goregaon, Bombay 62.

ARATIYA VIDYA BHAVAN Kulapati K.M. Munshi Marg, 400 007. Est. 1938. Institute of Indian Culture. Centers in London and New York. Publishes many good books.

DIVINE KNOWLEDGE SOCIETY Miss Vatsala Amin, Block 7, 137 Netaji Subhas Rd., Bombay 1.

NICHIREN BUDDHIST SECT Lovely temple and ceremonies. Monks are friendly; high, yet down home. A pilgrim writes: “After visiting them, the gongs of their ceremony came to me during sleep for the next nights like a recurring astral dream.”

PETIT FASALI ATASH-KADEH Dastoorji N.D., Minochehr-Homji, 44 New Marine Lines, Bombay 20.

SOHINI SURISH MEHTA 6 Tagore Rd., Santa Cruz West, Bombay 54 As.

THE ARYAN PATH (CU) Theosophy Hall, 40 New Marine Lines, 400 020.

THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY Blavatsky Lodge, French Bridge 7, Bombay 4.  358456.

VIPASSANA INT’L ACADEMY (Dhammagiri) Igatpuri near Nasik. 3 hrs NE of Bombay. Sri S.N. Goenka (“Goenkaji”) is India’s leading Vipassana Insight Meditation teaching master of V Ba Khin Tradition. An intensive 10-day course is given each month and reservations must be made months in advance. Write for course-dates c/o Organizers; VIA Dhammagiri; Igatpuri (Nasik Dist.) Maharas.

Ashram: CENTRAL CHINMAYA MISSION TRUST Sandeepany Sadhanalaya, Powai-Park-Drive, Bombay 72.  400-072. Int’l H.Q. Many other ashrams in India which aren’t listed here. Academy-ashram here has a free two-year study Program in Vedanta and Sanskrit for carefully selected students. Correspondence courses also available.

MAHAHARASHTRA BABAJI YOGA SANGAM c/o Sri Dwarka Khoslaji, Pres., 603 Jame Jamshed Rd., Goola Mansions, Parsee Colony, Matunga, Bombay 19.

PURUIA HOMI BANAJI Thakur Nivas, J. Tata Rd., Bombay 1.

SADHUBELLA ASHRAM 18 A B Desai Rd., Mahalaxmi, Bombay 26.  363461. Beautiful marble structure, accomodation with bathroom can be rented. See also Hardwar.

SHIV KUTIR Cadel Rd., Black 3, First Floor, Shiva-ji Park, Dadar 28. Contact Sunanda Kerie (speaks English).

VIDUA SIDDHI KENDRA 52 Radha Kunja, Opposite Children Park, Shiv-ji Park, Dadar., Bombay 28.

VISHUA YOGA BHARATI 5 Vallavha Nagar, Boriuili W., Bombay 66.

School: YOGASHAKTI MISSION SANGAM 11, Jaldarshan, 44 Nepean Sea Rd., Bombay 6.  214639, 385438. Chetan Nidra (Art of Conscious Sleep to relax Body and mind completely), Kriya Yoga. The head, Ma Yogashakti, was for many years a disciple of Swami Satyananda of Monghyr.

Bookstore: CHETANA BOOK DEPOT Rampart St. Kalaghoda, Bombay 1.

STRAND BOOKSTALL Dhan-Nur P., Meta Rd.

TARAPOREWALA SONS & CO. 210 Dr. Naoroji Rd.  261433.

Restaurant: B. TAMBE VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT Hamman St., Fort, Bombay 1. Very spicy Indian food.

DIPTI’S HOUSE OF DRINK Orminston at Kalaba Rd., (across from Rex Hotel). Fruit juice bar. Baila, the owner, serves everyone who comes through. Best juices and fruit delicacies in all India. A place to leave messages and meet old friends.

GOURDON’S Near Churchgate Station. Excellent Western-style meals, including vege.

VIRKAR AHAR BHAVAN Maharja Bldg., J.S. Road.

Health: BREACH CANDY HOSPITAL One of the cleanest and best equipped in Asia.

Other: KHADI BHAVAN Fort, Cottage Industry. Clothes and leather goods made from hides of animals having died of natural causes. Started by Gandhi as outlet for village industries. Quality goods, government controlled. Throughout all India, in large cities as well as villages.

LEE & MUIRHEAD 12 Rampart Row, Fort Bombay I. Reliable shippers.

TRAVEL CORPORATION OF INDIA Subash Sangoee. Travel agent.

Brindavan (UP) God seems to enjoy playing the trickster. Krishna hides in every lane and every shadow and assumes a myriad of forms to tease his gopis. And so I am going down to the bazaar in Brindavan amidst cows and rickshaws and many people. Old hags of mothers go about turning their malas (prayer beads and everywhere ring the shouts of “Radhe! Radheshayam!” Friends are bargaining and chasing away monkeys and there’s such happiness because everyone knows that in Brindavan, Krishna is doing it all and people are simply his gopis. But suddenly a cloth merchant bellows at me to see his wares, and I get very uptight and contracted; almost without my knowing it, Krishna disappears and darkness descends. Next moment a sadhu cries Radheshayam! and as the Name cuts through my fear, once again the smiles and bright eyes around me are filled with Krishna’s light, and I know that my Divine friend has been playing hide-and-seek with me all over again. – (Amazing Grace)

BRINDAVAN & THE SURROUNDING AREA Mathura (Krishna’s birthplace) Govidan Hill (which he held up with his little finger) Radha Kund (where he and Radha made pools of water for one another to take a bath) and many other spots were the setting for Sri Krishna’s youth by the holy Jumna River. A favorite pilgrimage place, Brindavan has thousands of temples and countless sadhus. For a wonderful experience do the Pilgrim’s walk around the city as the Sadhus do each morning.

BRINDAVAN TEMPLES Important temples in the order to be visited: Govindaj, Gopinathji, Radha Raman, Radha Gokulananda, Niduvan, Radha Damodora, Vrindaban-Shodena Sangstan, Banki Behari, Radha Ballara, Madan Mohan. Also holy men to visit in Brindavan: Devria Baba, at Stilt house by river, Hariakhan Baba, Bhagal Baba.

Center: INST. OF ORIENTAL PHILOSOPHY Has large library.

RAMAKRISHNA MISSION

Ashram: ANANDA MOI MA ASHRAM

GITA ASHRAM SATSANGA BHOOMI

ISKCON Radha-Damodara Temple, Seua Kuhj. Most of the devotees are Westerners. They will be happy to tell you about Lord Krishna and the Brindavan area and can guide you to many pilgrimage spots. They have a beautiful new temple and guest house.

NEEM KROLI BABA ASHRAM Hanuman Temple, Mathura Rd., There is a Western guest house here. Maharaj-ji is the guru of (Baba) Ram Dass.

Other: BANKI BEHARI TEMPLE Black Krishna, a statue found in a cave several hundred years ago, materialized from the astral plane. A curtain is opened and you look into the eyes of the murti then the curtain is drawn again. The devotees give garlands to the priest who takes them in to the god and then throws them back to the crowd. It is a Brahmin temple, the women are separate from the men, leather is not allowed. At 6:00 pm the Sadhus come to do their puja.

Bylakuppe (Mysore) The Tibetan community here in South India can be reached by taking a bus from Mysore City to Hunsur and on to Bylakuppe. From there it’s about an hour’s walk over hilly agricultural land to get to the various settlements and monasteries. The Indian government gave this whole area, once a jungle with elephants and other wildlife, to Tibetan refugees. About 10,000 people, mostly Kempas (nomads who used to herd the yaks in the Tibetan highlands) live here. Seven monasteries belonging to the four sects of Tibetan Mahayana Buddhism take care of the spiritual needs of the settlement. Nyingmapa, Kagyudpa, Sakya and Gelupa. They are not very far apart and you can visit them all in a one day’s pilgrimage on foot. You may be able to spend a night or two in one of them. Longer stays, however, are only possible with a special permission from the Indian government, as the settlement is still considered a refugee camp. Some Westerners have succeeded in the past and spent many months here studying with the head lamas of the monasteries. For more information you can write to: K.C. Ayang Tulku, Kagyudpa Monastery, Tibetan Settlement, PO Box Bylakuppe, District Mysore, South India.

Center: DREPUNG LOSELING LIBRARY SOCIETY Lama Camp 2, Tibetan Colony, (Mundgod) Uttar Kannada, Karnataka. PIN 581411. The society keeps contact and communication with Buddhist and other spiritual friends all over the world. Visit only after writing first. It is situated in a restricted area and permission to stay is necessary from the Indian Government, Department Rehabilitation, New Delhi. There is very limited space for visitors. Drepung Loseling Monastery is college of Drepung Monastery, once the biggest monastery in Tibet. It is a purely scholary institution with many high lamas and rinpoches. All in all there are seven Buddhist monasteries and some 1000 Tibetan Buddhist Monks. Write for more info and free newsletter.

Calcutta (Bengal) This large city is an extraordinary cultural training ground to which both Indians and Westerners are drawn. Perhaps the dirtiest, noisiest, squalid and crowded city in a land of dirty, noisy, squalid and crowded cities. I always warn visitors to skip Calcutta altogether, or at least not to begin their tour here. Why then do I come? The plain truth is that for all their faults I find a sweetness in these people, a devotional quality that absolutely inspires me. Perhaps it is something in the air. I’ve been walking down the streets, jostled by the throngs, yet drinking in a joy that seems to well up out of the ground. Unbelievingly, I find myself thinking that if any city on Earth can be called my city, this incredible place must surely be it! – (Swami Kriyananda).

NEW MARKET Great outdoor bazaar. Good place for both fine and funky goods.

Center: RAMAKRISHNA MISSION/INST. OF CULTURE Gol Park, Calcutta 29. Int’l guest house; J.P. Sen Gupta, Mgr. Expensive but good accomodations.

SHANTINIKITAN Haven of Peace. A spiritual center for music, poetry and dance.

SRI AUROBINDO PATHAMANDIR 15 Bankim Chatterjee St., Calcutta 12.

SRI AUROBINDO SAMITI 8 Theatre Rd., (Shakespeare Sarani), Bhowanipore. 700016. Sri Aurobindo’s birthplace. Relics and library.

SWAMI PRATYAGATMANANDA c/o Sudha Basu, B 217 Lake Gardens, Calcutta 45. Tantric.

YOGODA SATSANGA SOCIETY OF INDIA Yogoda Satsanga Math, 21 U. N. Mukherjee Rd., Dakshineswar, Calcutta 700076.  58-1931. Sri Paramahansa Yogananda. Write for info on YSS activities.

Monastery: MISSIONARIES OF CHARITY Order of nuns founded by saintly Mother Theresa here in 1950. This humble, serving Roman Catholic nun won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1980 for her work.

Bookstore: OXFORD BOOK STORE 17 Park St., 700016. Many religious books.

Lodging: RED SHIELD GUEST HOUSE 2 blocks from New Market. English run, English style, Clean, inexpensive.

THE MODERN LODGE Stunet Ln. off Sutter St. Inexpensive. Near New Market.

Other: YOGANANDA HOME 4 Gupar Rd.

Chhatarput (MP) Ashram: SASHRAM-MR. V. K. MANGALWADI c/o Mr. D. H. Lall, House No. 40, (Opposite Hospital).

Chidambaram (TN) Here is the 9th cent. temple of Nataraja, Lord Shiva in his aspect as the Cosmic Dancer.

Chitrukut (UP) Near Allahabad. Was the home of ancient rishis. Sri Rama rested here and now many sadhus and pilgrims come to worship him. From here you can take a boat to Janakigat a beautiful jungle retreat of sadhus. Don’t go at night since there are bandits in the area.

Cochin (Kerala) It is said Jews first came to Kerala in the 6th cent. B.C. Many more came in the 1st cent. A.D. fleeing Roman persecution in Jerusalem, and settled at Cranganore. In the synagogue of Mattancheri are the copper plates given to them in the 4th cent. A.D. by the local Hindu king granting them the village Arjuvannam “so long as the world and moon exists.” The colony flourished the Portuguese came. When the Dutch arrived peace was restored. The present synagogue was built in Mattancheri in 1568. The synagogue is there but the congregation has now all but vanished through emigration to Europe during the last two centuries. Cochin also contains the first European christian church in India, St Francis Church, where explorer Vasco de Gama was originally buried.

Cuttack (Orissa) This is the center for the Adivasi tribes. The Adivasi are the descendants of the people who lived in Orissa before the Aryans came from the North over 3000 years ago. Many still live a traditional hunting and agricultural life.

Dakshineswar (Bengal) Outside Calcutta. Kali temple and room where the great saint, Sri Ramakrishna, lived.

Darjeeling Good hill station. Many tourists. Fine view of Everest. Month-long walk to Kathmandu. Tibetan colony in nearby Kalimpong. Oct.- March, cold but clear skies. All around this area are very high Lamas and Gompas. Some miles below in Sonada is Gompa of Kalu Rinpoche.

Center: KANJUR RIMPOCHE Amgus Lodge – Shamrock Lodge, Above Post Office Gandhi Rd.

Dehra Dun (UP) Center: INDIA PSYCHOSYNTHESIS RESEARCH INST. Atrega Nuva PO Rajpur.

INDIA SOCIETY FOR PSYCHIC & YOGIC RESEARCH Darshana Decuerton, Rajpur

INT’L RESEARCH INST. OF PHILOSOPHY & PSYCHOLOGY, Rajpur.

LAMA SAKYA TRIZAN 187 Sakya Center. Institute for Training Young Ones, Sakya Rajpur Rd. Basic education, ritual prayer, chanting. Lama Trizan speaks English.

MANAN DHUN Clementown, 15 Min. from Dehra Dun on Sahranpur Rd. Large Kirpal Singh center for “man-service” and “land-service.” School of homeopathic and alternative medical systems. Aims at helping aged and needy. Open to all.

RAMAKRISHNA MISSION Rajpur Rd.

SHRI-SHRI-SHRI SHIVA BALA YOGA Near 180A Rajpur Rd.

SOCIETY FOR TANTRIC RESEARCH Kuthalgate, Rajpur.

Ashram: ANANDMAYEE ASHRAM

KAILASA ASHRAMA

SRI T. ANDHRA ASHRAM PO Dt. Dehra Dun.

VEDIC SADHAN ASHRAM Tapovan.

School: NYINGMAPA LAMAS COLLEGE Clement Town.

Delhi Old and New Delhi are cities of great contrast. Old Delhi is crowded with narrow streets, bazaars, the largest mosque in India, the Moghul Red Fort, Sikh Gurudwara Sis Ganj. It is very “oriental.” New Delhi is a place of wide boulevards, government offices and embassies, but it also has many historic sites. Many travellers find themselves spending much time here attending to business. Most of the listings are in New Delhi. For further help contact the Student Travel Assn., Theatre Communications Bldg., Connaught Circus, New Delhi.

NIZAMUDDIN WEST Here in the Basti is the Durga (tomb) of the great Sufi Saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia and the tombs of other sufi masters, and Urdu poets, and moslem rulers. Sufis gather at the tombs of their saints during the evenings, particularly Thursdays when there is an Awali where singers ecstatically extemporize. One of the tombs here is of Hazrat Inayat Khan who brought Sufism to the west. For assistance see Hazrat Inayat Sufi Center.

SIKH GURUDWARAS There are several pilgrimage Gurudwaras in New and Old Delhi. Sis Ganj Gurudwara on Chandi Chowk in Old Delhi marks the spot where the 9th Sikh master, Guru Tegh Bahadur, was martyred. Bangla Sahi Gurudwara is where the 10th Guru, Guru Gobind Singh’s sons were martyed. Try and visit Gurudwaras early in the morning between 5 am and 7 am to feel their full vibration. For a list of historic Gurudwaras in India write the Information Officer in Amritsar (see Amritsar).

Center: ASOKA MISSION VIHARA Qutub Minar, Mehraul. V. Dharmawara, Cambodian monk and head of the Hinayana order of Buddhists, age 80, teaches color meditation and healing. Youth hostel, too.

ASTRO-PSYCHO RESEARCH CENTRE 12 Main Market, Lody Colony 3.  611971. O.L.C. Jain, Dir.

ASTROLOGICAL RESEARCH CENTRE E. 111/2 Narayana, Colony 28.  39-28-14.

VBABA BEDI INST. FOR THE ENQUIRY INTO THE UNKNOWN F 17 Firdans, Jangpura Extension. very interesting, worth a visit.

HAZRAT INAYAT KHAN SUFI CENTRE B-12 Nizamuddin West, New Delhi 13, (2nd 1.).  623752. Sufi meeting place run by Hayat Bouman. Universal Worship first Sunday, Brotherhood Meeting third Sunday each month; 5:30pm winter, 6:30pm summer. Qawwali after meeting. Visitors welcome weekdays from 4-6, but call first.

OM RAMA YOGA SANGAM D.D.A. Bungalow No. 4, 7 Bhagwandas Rd. President, Sri Swami Rama.

SHRI BRIGHU DARBAN Rd. 53-B, West Punjabi Bagh, House 18. Brighu astrology is very sacred and based on readings from ancient palm leaf manuscripts.

SHRI KANHIYA KUTIR B-1, West Patel Nagar. Spiritual community center.

SHRI SATYA SHARAM MANDIR Bawli Lurind Pura, 830-Shradha Nand Marg. Satsang.

TUSHITA MAHAYANA MEDITATION CENTRE 5/5 Shantiniketan, ND-110021. 675468

VANDANA VIRMANI 69 Najofgarh Rd., ND-15.  581594.

VISHUAYATAN YOG ASHRAM 1 Jantar Mantar Rd.

VISHWA BHARATI SANSKRIT YOGA PARISAD (World University of Sanskrit Yoga Council), 90 T.N. Wakhaloo, H-277 Naraina. Swami Swanandashram, President.

Ashram: MA ANANDAMOYA ASHRAM Kalkaji, New Delhi 19.  631378.

RAMAKRISHNA MATH ASHRAM Temple. Good library. Meals available some days.

SAWAN ASHRAM/ RUHANI SATSANG INT’L. H.Q. Shakti Nagar, Gurmandi, Delhi 7.  8 221343. Sant Kirpal Singh’s major ashram. Write ahead.

SWAMI NITYACHAINTANYA Yati Center, 22 Sadar Pantel Marg, N.D. 11.  374893. Also Institute of Psychic and Spiritual Research and World Conference Scientific Yoga. In cooperation with Centre House, London.

VISHUA YOGA PRATISTHAN Ramesh Nagar, New Delhi 15.

VISHUAYATAN YOGASHRAM Ashoka Rd., Opp. Gole-Dak-Khanna.  388014.

YOG ASHRAM MANDIR LANE Reading Rd.

YOGA INT’L HOUSE A-50 Friends Colony, Mathura Rd.  632297. Many Westerners. Accomodations available. Excellent.

YOGA SADAN ASHRAM 2454 Chippi Bara Kuan.

YOGA SADHANA NIKETAN ASHRAM Baghichi Chetton Das, Nr. Red Fort. Good place to stay.

School: INT’L ACADEMY OF INDIAN CULTURE c/o Prof. Lokesh Chandra, J22 Hauz Khas Enclave. Study of tantric texts. Books available. Rare Japanese tantra prints on rice paper.

Bookstore: AMRIT BOOK CO N-21 Connaught Circus, ND 110001.

KUMAR GALLERY  618875. Expensive tantric art and books. Distributes Chakra and Mandala mags.

LASHMI BOOK STORE Sagar Publ., PO Box 553-1. Store at 72 Janpath Rd. Publishes, distributes spiritual books.

MOTILAL BENARSIDAS 41 Bungalow Rd., Jawahar Nagar, (Old Delhi) 110007.  28355, 221985. Indian and foreign editions. Indian prices. Best spiritual bookstore in India. Distributes and carries Spiritual Community Publications.

OXFORD BOOK & STATIONERY CO. Scindia House, Off Cannaught Pl. by Janpath Rd.  4-5308. Many religious books.

PICCADILLY BOOK STALL 64, Shankar Market, Connaught Circus, ND 110001.  13993. Western and spiritual books. Good selection.

VEDAM’S BOOKS 12 A-11 W.E. Area, ND-110005. Specializing in all aspects of Hindu and Buddhist subjects, astrology, occultism, etc.

Restaurant: KWALITY There are restaurants in New Delhi at all prices. Kwality (chain) is good.

MALABAR Pineapple shakes a specialty. Indian foods of all kinds, cheese and bread, cheap. (Old Delhi).

NIRULA’S HOTEL & BAKERY Connaught Circus, Good clean Western, Indian and Chinese food in a peaceful atmosphere at moderately expensive prices.

SUDH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT 12 Regal Bldg., Connaught Circus. Cheap.

WOODLANDS VEGETARIAN Adjacent Lodi Hotel (near Oberoi) a little more expensive but excellent.

Health: DR. M. L. SONI 43 Golf Links Rd. Good Dentist.

DR. PRITEE PIERCE 74 Sunder Nagar. 615247. Also does nose piercing.

HOLY FAMILY HOSPITAL on the outskirts of town. Western conditions. Good inexpensive outpatient facility.

Other: GRAMODYOG KHADE BHAVAN Connaught Pl. Gandhi’s Industries. Clothes, gifts, cloth, etc.

MOHAN SINGH’S MARKET Just off Connaught Circus. Good for food, juices, dairy and all the delights of India – fruit, tailors, brass, etc.

RAJGHAT (near the eastern edge) is where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated after being assassinated in 1948 and where his ashes are enshrined. Every Friday there is a memorial ceremony here with readings from the Hindu, Moslem and Christian holy books – books Gandhi always kept beside him when he worked. To participate in the ceremony is to be reminded that in the last conscious moment of his serviceful life Ghandhi thought of his creator and died with “Ram” on his lips.

SHANKAR MARKET On the outer circle of Connaught Pl. Brass market, great book store, indoor fruit and vegetable shop with government-regulated prices Hidden away behind the bazaar Lord Hanuman resides in a beautiful small temple. A fine place to meditate.

SITA TRAVEL Mr. Nashband. Good travel agent.

STUDENTS TRAVEL INFORMATION CENTRE Hotel Imperial, Janpath, 110001. 344789. Free left luggage room service and lending library. Issue Int’l Student Cards. Arrange cheap flights all over world.

TRIPSOUT TRAVELS c/o Harish Budhraja, 72 Janpath, ND-11001.  321863, 322654. Nr. Government Tourist Office. Many rely on Harish for just about everything. Specializng in charters and economy flights on all international airlines.

Dharmshala (HP) The Dalai Lama resides in upper Dharmshala (McLeod Ganj). Regarded as the Earthly manifestation of Chenresi, he is the “Precious Protector” and spiritual head of the Tibetan faith. Both his residence and temple adorned with precious thankas sit at the Himalayan foothills. He often gives public audiences on Tibetan holidays and Fridays.

For centuries McCleod was just another anonymous hill station lost somewhere in the North Indian wilderness, until, in 1964, the Dalai Lama chose an abandoned palace outside of town as his new headquarters.

In his footsteps followed every aspect of Tibetan society – high lamas, aspiring monks, traders, Lhasa society ladies and scores of peasants and orphans. Construction of every sort soon began – shops and trading stalls were thrown together, a mountain side shanty town soon arose, and the Dalai Lama built a temple residence and large library.

At first one is taken aback by the Tibetans. Strikingly similar in appearance to the American Indian, they seem vivacious and open-hearted to all and at the same time have a penetrating strength of mind which easily allows them to be both skilled traders and profound mystics. Soon one realizes that the Tibetans have brought here much of the feeling and atmosphere of their distant homeland. One easily absorbs the spirit of their dharma.

The focal point of this spirit is of course His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Some say that when he leaves town there is a wavering of the spirit. Clearly his homecomings are McCleod’s most festive days, and pujas led by His Holiness attract large crowds of beaming devotees.

Drawn around him are a wide range of high Lamas who form the core of McCleod’s spiritual scholastic community. Researchers, translators and teachers all actively use the large Tibetan Library and Archive built in 1970. Here Lama Gesheg, a leprechaun-like teacher with penetrating wisdom, gives a series of dharma courses. Each day some fifty Westerners climb the mountain to absorb the teachings. In addition to Gesheg’s classes, there is a wide range of teachings available. Young Tibetan monks have their own school of dialectics, advanced Westerners gather in classes studying sacred texts, others will soon take courses in language and art, and the Dalai Lama himself studies regularly with his tutor.

Those interested in coming to McCleod should know that it suffers a torrential monsoon – the second worst in India – from July to September, and a frigid winter from December to February. But somehow, this secluded mountain perch, with its fierce rains, frigid winter winds, playful monkeys and glorious sunsets seems fertile soil for the blossoming of the hardy transplanted Tibetan seeds. – (William Simons).

Center: COUNCIL FOR RELIGIOUS AFFAIRS (GELUGPA) Gangchen Kyishong.

TUSHITA INT’L RETREAT CENTRE c/o Postmaster, McCleod Ganj, Upper Dharamsala, Dist. Kangra. Lama Thubten Yeshe.

Dwarka This “Holy City of the West,” sacred to Lord Krishna, is one of the four main Hindu pilgrimage sites. Dwarka is near the capital from which Lord Krishna ruled the region of Saurashtra in Gujarat after coming there from Mathura. He died in Saurashtra.

Ellora Here, 30 km. from Aurangaband, can be found the most magnificent caves in the world, mountains cut into colossal sanctuaries. Of the 34 caves, the 12 to the south are Buddhist while the remaining are Brahmanical or Jain. The Buddhist caves are the earliest, dating from 450 to 650 AD. The entrance lies through a large open court. The most impressive of the Ellora caves is the 9th cent. Kailash Temple dedicated to Shiva. It is probably the largest monolithic structure in the world. Despite its colossal proportions, however, it is exquisitely and intricately sculptured.

Fatehpur Sikri (UP) Near Agra. Not to be missed. A fabulous city built by Emperor Akbar and soon after deserted. Among palaces and other buildings is Jami Masjid, the great mosque and the tomb of the Sufi saint Salim Chisti. Get permission in Agra to stay at Dak Bungalow overnight, otherwise it is a bus ride from Agra, but if possible do not go on weekends.

Ganeshpuri (Mahar) Other: SAMADHI OF BHAGWAN NITYANANDA Ganeshpuri, Dist. Thana. Temple of Swami Muktananda’s Guru, Baba Nityananda. “I walked in and was gifted. Bathed in bliss, a fine light energy radiance. I did nothing. It was the temple and Baba Nityananda.” – (Carol).

Ashram: SHREE GURUDEV ASHRAM now named Gurudev Siddha Peeth, Gavdevi, Ganeshpuri, PO Ganeshpuri. (Outside Bombay.) Write for directions. Ashram of Swami Muktananda Paramahansa. Spiritual seekers residing at the Ashram have to follow a strict program of karma yoga, swadhyaya, kirtan and meditation. Beautiful grounds. Many Westerners. Weather pleasant during monsoon and winter (July to April). Summer very hot. Write in advance.

The truth is that the whole universe is a creation of His inner vibration. Every nook and corner on our globe is filled with the Lord. Wherever you go is a sacred spot. Whatever direction you take is sacred.- Swami Muktananda

Gangotri Here in the Himalayas mother Ganges begins her journey.

Ashram: VISHWA BHARUTI SANSKRIT YOGA PARISHAD Ashram of Swami Swanandashram.

Gaya (Bihar) Ashram: SRI RAMAKRISHNA ASHRAM Gayatrighat, Gaya, Bihar. Center of cultural and spiritual cooperation among friends.

Girnar (Guj) The second most sacred hill for the Jains (see Palitana) is near Junagadh. From the Damodar Tank you walk the paved ascent of about 2,000 ft. Just below the 3,700 ft. summit the temple city of the Jains begins, consisting of smaller peaks crowned with shrines. The Amba Mata peak is topped with a temple of the same name, here newlyweds tie their clothes together. At Kalka’s Peak Sadhus gather during festivals.

Goa Former Portuguese colony with Christian shrines and monasteries as well as beautiful beaches, breezes and sunsets. At Velha Goa (Old Goa) is the tomb of St Francis Xavier, patron saint of the Portuguese, as well as many fine Catholic Cathedrals. But most come to Goa for swimming and relaxation and it has become a major hip scene. Most people go to beaches near Calangute, a 45 minute bus ride from Panjim where the Bombay boat docks. There is a boat to and from Bombay every day. Panjim is reached directly by bus too. The rail head is at Margao. There are many isolated beaches to the North and South. North of Mapuca is one beach which is between the sea and a fresh water lake. The beach between Calangute and Barga (near Titos restaurant) is a nice compromise between the hermit and the hip scene. While it is true that there is much dope and some ripoffs in places, most find only sun, free beaches, friendly uninquisitive people and healthy food, including brown bread, cashews and fresh fruit. Inexpensive rooms or houses can be rented anywhere even for a short stay and many build thatch huts or simply sleep on the beach. Goa is a good break from the exertions of Indian travel.

Goinwal (Punjab) Sikh Pilgrimage site. Here Guru Arjun Dev established the first free kitchen where beggar and king alike had to dine before visiting him thus showing all are equal in the eyes of God.

Gondia (Mahar) School: SIPS-SIVANAD INT’L PUBLIC SCHOOL 460, Yoga shool for children, 100 km from Nagpur. Run by Ma Yogashakti, 25 acre campus.

Hardwar (UP) Meaning “Doorway to God.” Located on the blue and beautiful Ganges 17 mi. south of Rishikesh. Site of the 1974 Kumba Mela. Many ashrams gurus, sadhus and temples, particularly in Kankhal area where there is the Ramakrishna Hospital. No meat, eggs, fish or alcohol allowed in town.

Center: SWAMI GANESHANANDGI MAHARAJI Sadhana Sadana, Gandhi Mare Kankhal.  186. Interpreter of the holy text.

Ashram: RAM KUNDU Yoga Abhyasa Ashram, Kankhal, near Sadhana Sadeen.

SADHUBELLA ASHRAM Satsarower Rd., Saharanpur.  236 and 393. Head Mahant Swami Ganeshdashja Maharaj. Does not speak English. Interpreter necessary (sometimes resident). Rooms with bath rented out. Reservation advised.

SRI ANANDAMOYI ASHRAM Swami Paramananda, PO Kankhal.

SRI AVADHUTA MANDAL Hanuman Pitha.

SRI MAHESHWARANANDA ASHRAM PO Kankhal.

SRI RATHAKRISHNA TEMPLE Ganga Kuti, Kanpur Dist. No guest facilities.

Restaurant: CHOT WALI On Main Street. Large and clean. Full menu including non-curried foods. A good place.

Health: RANAKR HOSPITAL Free treatment. English spoken.

Howrah (Bengal) Ashram: SRI RAMAKRISHNA MATH ASHRAM c/o Sri Swami Abhayananda, 221 A Girsh Chase Rd., PO Belur Math. (See Calcutta).

Hyderbad This is a beautiful city with the Nizzim’s Palace and jewels.

Center: VIPASSANA INT’L MEDITATION CENTRE Kusumnagar, Hyderbad 35. Companion center to VIA in Igatpuri. (see Bombay listings) Alternate courses are held here.

Jaipur (Raj) India’s pink-rose city, famous for art, jewelry, fine fabrics and palatial buildings. Has an ancient astrological laboratory.

Jamshedpur Ashram: GURU JANARDAN PARAMAHANSA Purnanand Ajapa Yoga, Sansthan, Medical Colleges, Dimna. Ashram of Ajapa Breath Fnd.

Kainchi Ashram: NEEM KROLI BABA MAHARAJI Outside of Nainital by a small river and mountains. Amazingly high and beautiful even though Maharaji is no longer present in his physical body. Ask for Hanuman Temple. (8 hrs. bus journey from Delhi.)

Kalimpong Center: MADHAV NIKUNJ (NYINGMAPA) Dist. Darjeeling. Dudjom Rinpoche, Tibetan master.

Kanchipuram (TN) called the Varanasi of the south, is the site of many Dravidian temples. It is one of the seven holy Hindu cities of India, the others being Hardwar, Ujjain, Varanasi, Mathura, Ayodhya and Dwarka. This area is also the abode of two contemporary saints, Shankaracharya and the Periyava Swami. Ask about them in town.

Kanhangad (Kerala) Ashram: ANANDASHRAM Kanhangad, Dist. Cannarore.  36. was founded by Swami Ramdas who attained realization through chanting the mantra Om Sri Ram Jai Ram Jai Jai Ram. This chanting, meditation, and service constitute the major practice at the ashram which is presided over by saintly Mother Krishnabai. The ashram is prevaded with an open love, accepting everyone of all faiths. It is gentle, simple & unassuming. The motto of the Ashram is Universal Love and Service. Although there are gatherings throughout the day there is no compulsion to attend. One can simply come for retreat and to be in the vibration of “Papa” Ramdas. Each morning and evening Mother Krishnabai gives Darshan. If you go, be sure and climb the hill behind the ashram for a wonderful view of the lush Keralan countryside and the Arabian Sea. Write first: Anandashram, PO Anandashram 670531, Kanhangad, North Kerala, S.I. Swami Ramdas’ talks are available in bookform. In Quest of God is the story of his wanderings through India.

SWAMI NITYANANDA ASHRAM His ashram and samadhi are in south Kanhangad. (also see Ganeshpuri).

Kanpur The J. K. Temple is a beautiful temple with spacious grounds and well-kept garden.

Karaikuddi (TN) Ashram: KARAIKUDDI BABAJI YOGA SANGAM Arupathi Moovar Madom, Karaikuddi 3, Ramanathapuram Dist.

Kanya Kumari Ashram: VIVEKANANDA ASHRAM Kanya Kumari, 629702 Pin.

Karla & Bhaja The great Chaitya Hall at Karla is not only the largest of all the early Buddhist chapels, it is also one of the most magnificent.

Khajurao Extraordinary 10th cent. Jain and Brahmin temples. Famed for carvings of tantric sexual positions. “Integrated in these sculptures I find an entire span of life chiseled out with warmth, humanity and directness. I leave the temples marveling at the spirit of the men who carved a whole world in stone for the joy of it.”- (Anees Jung). Transportation to Khajurao is difficult except by airplane or guided tour.

Kottayam (Kerala) Very tropical. There are many inland backwaterways in the area. A wonderful 3 hr. ride through palm fringed canals is via public transportation from Kottayam to Allepe or vice versa. There are also longer cruises.

Ashram: JNANA ASHRAM Wada Kancheri, Parlike.

Kulitilai SHANTI VANAM via Thannerpalli, Trichi Dist. Take bus from Tiruchi- rapali (Trichi) which goes to Kulitilai and ask for Shanti Vanam. This Christian-Hindu-Universal Ashram is located on the banks of the sacred Cauvery River. It was started by two French Catholic Priests. The present head is Dom Bede Griffiths who came to India as a Catholic priest and later studied in Rishikesh and became a Swami. The Mass and church incorporates many aspects of South Indian Hinduism with the service in English and Tamil. But the experience here goes even beyond that of the Hindu and Christian – it goes to the universal christ consciousness of man and there is a feeling of love and openess at the ashram. There is a library to which donnations are gratefully accepted. Many Indian and Ceylonese priests come to Shanti Vanam for retreat and study. Here they search for the meaning of being a Christian in a Hindu country. Visitors are most welcome but because of the limited quarters it is most necessary to write in advance. Also in this area are many ancient Hindu temples and shrines. For those who have much time they can also visit an all women yogini ashram.

Kulu Valley (UP) The Valley of the Gods, is a lush Himalayan valley where Tibetans, Sadhus and Westerners all gather. An excellent site for purification, particularly in the monsoon season, the valley is rich with fresh fruits – apple plums, cherries, apricots and berries – in the spring and late fall. In a natural hot springs run by Tibetans you may sit in mineral waters and receive the darshan the surrounding snow-capped peaks. To reach the valley, take public bus transportation to Manali.

Center: THAKUR BALAK RAM Paramount Orchards tel 113. A high being.

Kurukshetra (Har) Battlefield of the Mahabharata, a nuclear war which wipe out that civilization. Where the Bhagavad Gita was written. Many shrines and temples.

Kushinagar (UP) “Do not weep O Ananda for all that is born carries within itself the seeds of dissolution. Be ye a lamp unto yourself. Be ye a refuge to yoursel Behold now brethren decay is inherent in all component things. Work out your salvation with diligence.” Here Buddha attained Parinirvana at the Parivirva Chaitya large mound known locally as Ramabhar where Lord Buddha took his Maha-Samadhi. Large statue of Golden Buddha lying on his side. Very warm beautiful monks run dharamsala next to the temple. Visitors welcome.

Madras (TN) In the suburb of Adyar is the Int’l HQ of the Theosophical Society and the Kalakshetra Music and Dance school (See Adyar) Madras is the capital and cultural center of the Tamil people. There are many Westerners here studying Bharata Natyam and Karnatak Music. There are also many performance Look in the newspaper or enquire at Kalakshetra.

Center: INT’L BABAJI YOGA SANGAM (Int’l HQ), 1-A Arulananda Mudali St., San Thome (Mylapore), Madras 4. No accomodation.

MAHABODHI SOCIETY 10 Kennet Ln. opposite Egmore Station. Ven Nandiswara, a Sinhalese monk and Dharma teacher, takes in retarded and disturbed Indian children for rehabilitation. Mahabodhi also has ample accomodations in the Pilgrims Hostel while you are in Madras.

SAHAK MARG Ramchandra head.

SWAMI DYANANDA c/o Chinmaya Mission, 10 Harrington Rd.

Bookstore: GANESH & CO 71 Pondy Bazaar, Madras 600017. Esp. for books by A Avalon (Sir John Woodroffe).

Health: DR R. K. SEKAR 22, North Mada St., Mylapore, Madras 600004. (at the Mylapore Pond of the Kapalishvari Temple). A particulary good physician of Siddha System of medicine, South Indian variety of traditional Ayuveda.

Madurai (TN) Lodging: NEW COLLEGE HOME HOTEL

Other: MEENAKSHI TEMPLE Rhythmic mandalas from this exquisite temple. Sevices held at 5 a.m.

Manali (UP) Apo Rinpoche has a monastery here.

Mathura (UP) The Birthplace of Lord Krishna (in Katra) and one of the main Hindu pilgrimages in India. There are many temples and ghats by the sacred Jumna River. Dwarkadish Mandir (Temple) and Vishram Ghat (at sunset for Arti) should be visited. (Also see Brindavan).

Ashram: GITA ASHRAM YOGA MANDIR Gaughat.

Lodging: INT’L GUEST HOUSE in Katra.

Mayapur (Bengal) Center: ISKCON INT’L CENTRE PO Sree Mayapur Dham, (District Nadia).

McCleod Ganj See Dharmshala.

Modhera (Guj) The Sun Temple here was designed so that the image of Surya (Sun God) – now missing – would be struck by the rising sun at the equinoxes. The temple is full of light.

Monghyr (Bihar) Ashram: ANANDA MARG PROCHARAK SANG Jamalpur, Eastern Ply.

RAMASHRAM SATSANG SADHANA Karyalaya.

School: BIHAR SCHOOL OF YOGA Sivanandashram.  2334, 2430. Paramahansa Satyananda founder Int’l. Yoga Fellowship. Disciple of Swami Sivananda Saraswati.

Mt Abu (Raj) Hill station in the Rajasthani Desert with a lake and palaces. Here also are the exquisite Dilwara Jain Temples. Not to be missed. One pilgrim writes: “At first I was overcome by the sheer aesthetic magnificense of the Carved ivory ceilings – pure white mandalas. I had to sit down. Then when I sat down the vibration of the temple began to take me – it took me to the point of sheer ecstacy. I could only take these temples in small doses but I had to come back the next day for more.” These and other Jain temples make Mt Abu a major Jain Pilgrimage site. There are 101 temples in Rajasthan; Jains believe that if a pilgrim visits them all he will get individual blessings from Mahavir.

Center: VIMALA THAKER Shiv-Kuti. She lives on Mt Abu from Jan. to March.

Lodging: JAGENDRA HOTEL moderate.

Nainital Center: BUDDHANANDA (English name: Ronald Boughten) Amar Newas, Geolikot District. Buddhist in an orange robe. Helpful and friendly.

Nawadah (Bihar) Ashram: MOKSHA FND. Manava Mukti Sangha, Siddhapurusha Nityananda, Founder. Station Rd., Harichandan Talab, Nawadah, Bihar.

Nalanda Ruins of the famed Buddhist monastery and university which was acclaimed throughout the East. Near Rajgir.

Nanded (Mahar) The samadhi of the 10th Sikh Master, Guru Gobind Singh. Many Gurudwaras.

Nava Center: NAVA/NALANDA RESEARCH INST. Ven Dr. Dhammaratna will gladly receive serious advanced Dharma students, academics and research scholars. Buddhist monks from around the world study Buddhist history, Pali and Sanskrit language; fine complete library and achives. Write first.

New Delhi See Delhi.

Neyyar Dam (Ker) Center: SIVANANDA YOGA VEDANTA DHANWANTHARI ASHRAM Neyyar Dam PO Trivandrum Dt.

Ottapalam (Kerala) Ashram: SWAMI VISHADANANDA Sri Ramakrishna Ashrama, Sri Ramakrishna Nagar.  679103.

Palitana (Guj) is the approach to Shatrunjaya Hill which is covered with 863 Jain temples. Meaning “the place of victory” (over hatred and worldly things) this hill is the most sacred of the five Jain hills. (See Girnar) Before you can climb up to the gleaming, spired hilltop you must remove all leather. Ask permission of the Muniji Anandji Kalyanji Trust in Palitana if you wish to see the temple jewels or take photographs. The temples are closed in monsoon season and after dark. Jains believed in the efficacy of temple building as a means of spiritual salvation and there are many masterpieces here.

Patiala (Punjab) Sikh Pilgrimage site. Guru Tegh Bahadur rested here on way to martyrdom in Delhi.

Patna (Bihar) Patna is a pilgrimage site for Hindus and Sikhs. Hindus come here to do honor to ancestors. It is the birthplace of the 10th Sikh Master, Guru Gobind Singh and there is a Gurudwara where his house stood. Free kitchen & lodging available. Patna is also one of the most inexpensive places to fly to Kathmandu, Nepal.

Center: ANANDA MARGA PROCHARAK SANG 160 Pottiputra Colony, Patna 13.

Payyanur (Kerala) Ashram: SRI NARAYANA GURUKULA Erhu Mala. Payyanur is on the Mangalore-Cochin railway south of Kasargod. From there, is a direct bus to ashram which is on an island connected to coast by bridge. At the ashram are Westerners who are the direct disciples of an Indian Guru who has left his body. This is not a soft, cushy ashram.

Poona (Mahar) A wonderful city. Cheap, friendly, many spiritual centers. Palm fruit juice and incense factories give Poona the fragrance of a flower.

Center: AVATAR MEHER BABA POONA CENTRE 441/1 Somwarpeth. 26390. India’s largest Meher Baba center is here where he was born. Special festivities on Baba’s Mahasamadhi, Jan. 31, and his birthday, Feb. 25. Across the street from the main gate and a little way down is the dharamsala of one of the popular saints of Maharashtra, Ghadge Maharaj, who awakened Meher Baba. Inexpen- sive and very holy lodging sometimes available.

BHAGWAN SHREE RAJNEESH Westerners’ Ashram, 33 Koreigan Park. Camp and meditation instruction especially for Westerners.

FRIENDS OF THE WESTERN BUDDHIST ORDER-FWBO 2050 SK Jan Mohammed Camp, Pune 411001. Anagarika Lokamitra, an English monk heads this branch of the London-based org. They are working to revive the Ambedkar New Buddhist Movement (former untouchables and Harijans).

KYVALYDHAMA YOGA INST. Lonavala, Maharashtra. Many courses in English, yoga research.

Ashram: PROF. D.V. GOKHALE 604 Sadashiv, Poona 2. Working on “4 F Project.” Fuel, fruits, furniture, flowers for spiritual and ecological purposes.

VASUDEVA YOGASHRAM 63/17 Karvery Rd., Poona 4.

Pondicherry Ashram: ANANDA ASHRAM Lawspet. Dr. Swami Gitananda (Canadian born). Extensive course from Sept. to March in Hatha yoga, yoga theory and Aryuvedic philosophy. Mostly Westerners.

SRI AUROBINDO ASHRAM c/o Main Office, Pondicherry 605002. Sri Aurobindo the Bengali patriot, poet and yogi developed and wrote much of his Integral Yoga in a room in the main ashram building. The Mother who came from France was to manifest his thought into concrete action. She developed the ashram and its schools and businesses and directed them until she left her body in 1973. She was the guiding spirit behind the innauguration of Auroville (see Auroville) “Each one should know whether he wants to be part of the old dying world or work for a new and better world which is preparing to be born.” – The Mother. On arriving in Pondicherry go to the reception in the Ashram by the Samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and the Mother. Ask for a map of the Ashram city. Here you always get directions if you know what to ask for. For further orientation take the Ashram morning tour and the Auroville afternoon tour.

School: B. K. S. IYENGAR YOGA SCHOOL

Restaurant: TOUC’ QU’IL FAUT State House, 4 rue Lal Bahadur. Yes, a French restaurant run by people from the Ashram in a stately mansion. Started by the Mother’s grand-daughter. Non vege. & vege.

AUROVILLE KITCHEN meals.

ASHRAM DINING HALL One of the best and cheapest places to eat. Get a card at your guest house or the reception. Many guest houses also provide meals and tea.

Health: CLINICS There is a fine ayurvedic clinic here worth a visit even if you feel fine. There is also a homoeopathic clinic and a physical medicine clinic (chiropractic & massage). Try and avoid Dr. Nepender’s Western medicine clinic. There are good Western medical facilities at Jipmer and the catholic hospital.

Lodging: INT’L GUEST HOUSE centrally located and moderately priced – book in advance. Also good are Park and Golconde if you can get in. There are many other ashram guest houses.

Other: FILMS on Sat. nights – ID card needed for entrance.

Poondi (TN) Here in a stall by the bus stand in the village of Poondi near Tiruvanamalai was the seat of the “Poondi Swami” who left his body in 1978. He hadn’t moved from the spot for 14 years. He ate, slept, bathed and gave his darshan there. For more info Westerners can write Chimta Swami c/o Poondi Swami, Poondi, Post Polur, Talur N.A. Dist.

Porbandar (Guj) Mahatma Gandhi was born in this city on Oct. 2, 1869. The Kirti Mandir contains the room of his birth, spinning hall, prayer hall and more.

Puri is a city of ashrams with one of India’s largest and most ancient temples, the Lord Jaganath Temple. Westerners not admitted. Also has a throbbing cart festival. Miraculously the sun both rises and sets on the Bay of Bengal. There is a seemingly endless beach lined with old abandoned palaces. Visit Dec.-March or it gets hot. At nearby Konarak there is a Sun Temple.

Pushkar (Raj) Lake Pushkar was created when Lord Brahma let fall a drop of nectar. The town and area around holy Lake Pushkar is an important Hindu Pilgrimage site. Every Nov. full moon thousands come to take a dip in its sacred waters. At this time the surrounding desert becomes a huge open air market and camel fair. There is much color and pageantry. Other times of the year it is quiet. Temples and Dharmsalas ring the lake. Here is one of the only temples dedicated to Lord Brahma. Stay at the government tourist bungalow in one of the domed rooms if possible and watch the desert sunset over the lake. Pushkar is also sacred to Sikhs since Guru Gobind Singh rested here.

Puttaparthi (Mysore) Ashram: PRASANTHI NILAYAM ASHRAM Puttaparthi Village. Sai Baba often stays here. Women should wear saris. There is a train from Kalisbalian and direct bus also from Bangalore.

Center: SWAMI HAROHARANANDA Karar Ashram, Swargadwar. Swami was a disciple of Sri Yukteswar and Paramahansa Yogananda and offers free teachings in Kriya yoga.

Ragjir (Bihar) An area of very holy vibrations. Here Buddha spent 9 years, Jesus 3, the head of the Jain religion gave his first dharma teaching; there is a curative hot radioactive mineral spring, a Gandhi health cure center, the Japanese World Peace Stupa, a Nichiren Buddhist temple, Burmese Vihara and Muslim Shrines. – (William Simons).

Ranchi (Bihar) Center: YOGODA SATSANGA SOCIETY OF INDIA Yogoda Satsanga Sakha Math, Paramahansa Yogananda Path, Ranchi 834001,  Ranchi 23724. Sri Paramahansa Yogananda. Write to Gen. Sec. for info. about YSS activities.

Rishikesh (UP) meaning “village of seers,” is blessed with a sacred vibration. For centuries saints have journeyed here to the Himalayan foothills where the Ganges emerges from the mountains. West of the Ganges is the large Sivananda Ashram and eye hospital. To the east are ancient temples and ashrams open to visitors. There is free boat service from the Sivananda Ashram. You can also use the swaying Pilgrim’s Bridge. No meat, eggs, fish or alcohol allowed in Rishikesh. Swargashram is a city of ashrams on the Ganges three miles north of Rishikesh. Peaceful place of sadhus.

Center: ACADEMY OF MEDITATION Shankaracharya Nagar, East of Ganges. Secluded. Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. (TM) Must have appointment and confirmed reservation. Very expensive.

DIVINE LIFE SOCIETY Sivananda Ashram PO Box Sivanandanagar, Dt. Tehri- Garwal UP. Library, bookstore, hospital. Swami Premananda, Swami Chidananda and Swami Atmaramanda (a veteran Theosophist) at the ashram. All speak English.

INST. OF KALIKUMLIVALLA Feeds 10,000 people daily for free. Provides pilgrimage card for Himalayas; paid for in advance. Good for food, medicine, refuge and map of pilgrimage spots.

KRISHNAMURTI FND. INDIA Rishi Valley School, Rishi Valley, PO Chittoor Dist.

POORNANAND YOGASHRAM Lakshaman Jhoola.

SPIRITUAL REGENERATION MOVEMENT Academy of Meditation, Shankara Charya Nagar 249305, Via Rishikesh, Magr. J.P. Shrivastaua. Many Westerners here.

SWAMI AMERICAN BABAJI Ananth Anander, PO Swargashram, Muni-ki-reti. Lives in cave, speaks only Hindi.

SWAMI UMA SHAKAR ANANDA Contact through Swami Atmananda. German woman, who has been living in a cave here for since 1959. She studies Sanskrit, paints and makes her own food. Uma speaks German and English. Only women should visit.

Ashram: AJAPA BREATH FND. Shri Purnanada Yogashram, Laxmanjhulla. Main center.

GITA ASHRAM PO Swargashram. Open to Westerners.

PARMATH-NIKETAN Naiva Sampat Mandal, Swarga Ashram. Write for permission.

YOGA NIKETAN Gangottari, Uttar Kashi, Muni-ki-reti, PO Swargashram. Across the river. Free flowing ashram. Good place to stay.

YOGA SADHANA ASHRAM Station Rd.

School: YOGANT ACADEMY Balyogi Swami Premvarni, PO Swarga Ashram, I-249304, Dist. Pauri Garhwal.  333. All aspects of yoga.

Restaurant: CHOT WALI East of Ganges.

Saharanpur (Har) Ashram: RISHIKAL VIDYAPITH BRAHMACHARYA ASHRAM Training in Brahmacharya, Sanskrit and Malviya Research. Ayurvedic medicine college, hospital and pharmacy. Students from all over the world study religion and culture, seeking synthesis and harmony.

Sanchi Magnificent, group of Buddhist monuments, shrines and and monasteries built by Emperor Asoka in the 2nd cent. B.C.

Sankasya Here Buddha descended to Earth after preaching the Abidharma in Trayastrima Heaven. Site of many ancient monuments and monasteries, most which are now in ruins.

Sarnath From Bodh Gaya to Sarnath the Buddha came. Here, in the Deer Park outside Varanasi, he preached his first sermon and set in motion the Wheel of Dharma. Here he revealed the eight-fold path that leads to the attainment inner peace, Enlightenment and ultimate Nirvana. Sarnath marks the birth a Buddhism. Hence it became a great center of Buddhist activities and remained so for more than a millennium and a half. Today, the ruins of Sarnath cover an extensive area. Temples, stupas and monasteries belong to different periods construction, the earliest going back to Asoka. The site of the Asoka Stupa probably marks the spot where the Buddha delivered his first sermon. Nearly stands the broken stump of the Asoka Pillar, the magnificent Lion Capital which was adopted as India’s official emblem, and which can now be seen at the Sarnath Archeological Museum.

Center: MAHABODHI SOCIETY Center of an international Buddhist org. Includes a monastery, temple, school and rest home. Lodging possibly available. Contact Devananda.

The Seychelles Islands of paradise secluded in the Indian Ocean.

Shirdi (Mahar) 100 miles N. W. of Bombay. Samadhi of Sai Baba of Shirdi. Very beautiful area with gardens.

Somnath (Guj) This is a Hindu pilgrimage site where the original beautiful first cent. temple was destroyed (by the Muslims) and rebuilt more than seven times. Once again the temple is being rebuilt, on the exact spot, and in the same way as the previous temple. The temple faces the sea. At noon and dusk bhajans are sung.

Sonada Center: SANDUP TARTEYLING MONASTERY (KAGYUPA) Ven. Kalu Rinpehe, Dist. Darjeeling. Tibetan Master.

Sravanabelgola 62 miles north of Mysore, is dominated by the colossal (57 ft) statue of the Jain saint Gomateswara. There are also other statues and a beautiful temple. There is fine singing in the evening. Every 12 years Jains from all over India gather here for the “bathing” of the statue.

Center: SRI LANKA ARAMAYA A lovely quiet monastery that is inhabited by a kindly old Sinhalese monk and his cook. Ven Sangharatna speaks fluent English and may be able to accomodate you if you let him know you are coming. It isn’t easy to reach.

Sravasti Capital of the ancient kingdom of Kosala, it is the setting for Lord Buddha’s greatest miracle. Here he convinced the sceptics and disarmed the doubters. In a contest of miraculous feats with the Tirthikas before King Prasenajit and the assembled audience, the Blessed One took his seat on a thousand petalled lotus and multiplied himself a million fold. Fire and water gushed out of his body and the unbelievers were confounded. Sravasti is today a wilderness, but in the days of the Buddha it was an active center of Buddhism. It was here that the merchant Anathapindika paid a fabulous price in gold to build a large monastery for the Master in the garden of Prince Jeta. The Sravasti miracle and the story of the purchase and presentation of the monastery are favorite themes in early Buddhist art. Sravasti is now the modern Saheth-Maheth in UP.

Srinagar (Kashmir) Vale of Kashmir on the river Jhelman. Surrounded by lakes. Beautiful though somewhat touristy. Floating gardens with lotus and hundreds of other flowers.

Center: RESEARCH INST. FOR KUNDALINI Gopi Krishna people.

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF SANSKRIT YOGA COUNCIL Mahanta, Durganagh Shrine.

Srirangam (TN) Near Trichy. One of largest Vishnu temples. The entire town is almost within the seven walls of the temple.

Tanjore (TN) Brihadeesware Temple, one of the greatest in India.

Tehri-Garhwal (UP) Center: THE DIVINE LIFE SOCIETY OF INDIA + Sivananda Ashram, PO Sivanandanagar. Spiritual center for the Society.

Tiruchirapalli or Trichy (TN) The Rock Fort towers over the city.

Tiruvanamalai (TN) This is one of the most highly charged places in Southern India. The town itself lies at the foot of holy Arunchala Mountain. Ramana Maharshi (famous for his Jnana Yoga of “Self Inquiry”) came and did Sadhana on this mountain. You can follow the pilgrim’s path to caves where he and the other saints meditated. It is also important to circumnambulate the mountain, which takes from 3 hrs. to a day. Along the way are temples, villages and Babas. If the weather is too hot, try it at night. This is said to be especially high. in Tiruvanamalai is the Arunchalam Temple one of the largest Shiva Temples in India. Arunchala is the aspect of the Divine as the purifying fire and both the mountain and temple are manifestations of it. Although Arunchala and Tiruvanamalai are associated with Ramana Maharshi many holy men have resided and are residing in the area. Nearby Poondi (1 hr. bus ride) was the seat of the Poondi Swami (see Poondi). Another powerful if unorthodox teacher is Yogi Ramsuratkumar. He can be found hanging out near the brass shops (ask there) in the market near the Temple. He always appreciates an offering of food, cigarettes (Bears Specials are his brand) or money. In the book Yogi Ramsuratkumar, The Godchild, Turuvanamalai by an American disciple, the Yogi’s spiritual journey is outlined from the time he was a little boy by the Ganges to his coming to South India to see Ramana Maharshi and Sri Aurobindo, his early teachers, til his final initiation by his Guru, Swami “Papa” Ramdas at Anandashram (see Kanhanged). Then his return to Tiruvanamalai where for the past 25 years he has been living as a “holy beggar” while doing inner and outer work to help raise the vibration of humanity. Now Westerners come to see him. He has no ashram, they just sit on the street in a corner by the temple.

Ashram: BABAJI YOGA SANGAM SADHANA CENTRE Virupaksha Cave, Arunachalam Temple Hill Slope. Cave sanctified by the meditations of Ramana Maharshi, Mahasiddha Idai Kadar, Seshadri Swamigal, Yogi Shuddhananda Bharathiyar.

RAMANA MAHARSHI ASHRAM At the foot of Mt Arunachala. Sacred Shiva mountain. Limited accomodation; write in advance. Bhagwan Sri Ramana Maharshi was one of a very few truly realized beings of this century. He spent almost his entire life at the foot of Arunachala, the holiest mountain in South India and said to be Shiva’s abode – if not Shiva himself! There are many saintly swamis and sadhus in Tiru., but the ones most able to communicate with exploring Westerners are; Om Sadhu who lives almost across from the Ashram down a nearby lane; Sheshardi Swami who can be reached through the Ashram post office and Nairya Kuti Swami who lives near the Virupaksha Cave. And then there is “The Beggar” (Ram Surat Kumar Yogi) who is marvelously nutty. All in all Tiru. is one of the finest places to live for a spell, and really taste India. The Ashram does have very limited accomodations and it is suggested you write a very proper letter of polite request and introduction in advance. They will answer you.

Triukoilur (Madras) Ashram: SRI GNAADANDA THAPOVANAM ASHRAM

Ujjain One of the seven Hindu holy cities of India.

Uttar-Kashi (UP) School: WORLD UNIVERSITY OF SANSKRIT YOGA COUNCIL (Vishwa Bharati Sanskrit Yoga Parisad), PO Gangotri. Led by Swami Swanandashram, Yogiraj of Shankaracharya.

Vaisala Buddha often visited here. Monkeys offered him a bowl of honey and the Courtesan Amarapali presented him with a mango grove. Many ancient ruins and Sacred monuments.

Varanasi (UP) If any one place attracts the most Western pilgrims it is Varanasi (or Benares), the ancient Kashi abode of Shiva Viswanath. Here He dances madly in the cremation grounds adorned with skulls and serpents and accompanied by ghosts and specters. Tulsi Das calls Lord Shiva “The abode of blessings in unblessed disguise” – because in addition to his terrible aspect, he whispers “Ram!” into the ear of the dying, thus bestowing upon them final emancipation. Kashi is exactly like its presiding deity: powerful and imposing with twisting lanes and the hustle of business, beggars, lepers, sadhus and pilgrims. Some days almost everyone is stoned on bhang (a marijuana preparation). Kashi seems heavy and even terrifying – but if one worships it all as God, there will come a breakthrough to the very heart, and one will experience Shiva’s love and blessings.

It’s good to rent a houseboat or live near the Ganges because here is the essence of the town, naked and timeless. Absolutely everything goes on at the river – the whole tableau of life and death. Corpses and flowers float downstream while thousands impassively come to do laundry, take drinking water, travel, transport goods, wash the living bodies and burn the dead ones. Manikarnika is the principal burning ghat, where there are always funeral pyres crackling. Seekers come here to meditate on the impermanence of the body or to have Shiva’s Darshan. All around are temples, sadhus and dying people. On rainy days people come to get dry by the fires. And all the while Mother Ganga just flows on, sustaining the life forms around Her and bearing away whatever is given Her. Om Namo Shivaya.

Center: THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY Indian HQ, Kamachha, 221001.

VINOBA ACHARY BHAVE Sarva Seva Sangh, Gajghat,  4391.

Ashram: SRI MA ANANDAMOYI ASHRAM Sri Sri Anandamoyi Sangha has over 20 ashrams in North India. To stay overnight, get permission from the General Secretary, Sri Sri Anandamoyi Sangha, Bhadaini, Varanasi. Ma Anandamoyi known by her devotees as “The Mother” is one of India’s few women saints. She travels often, visiting her many ashrams.

School: BENARES HINDU UNIVERSITY Varanasi 2.

Bookstore: CHOWKHAMBA CO. Gopal Mandir Ln., PO Box 8, Varanasi 221001  

 63145.

Ashram: AKHID BHARTIYA YOGA PRACHARNI SABHA Maidagin.

Veraval (Guj) Between Somnath and Veraval is the Bhalaka Tirtha Temple with a reclining statue of Krishna, signifying his death here. Also near Veraval is the site of his cremation at a three river sangam.

Whitefield Ashram: SRI SATYA SAI BABA CENTRE Suburb of Bangalore. “Come to me empty-handed, that I may fill you with what I have to give you – Divine Love.” (Sai Baba) No lodgings at the ashram but easily found in the village Women should wear saris.